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她投时尚网站有一手

 cntic 2011-10-19


At the height of the dotcom bubble in 2000, almost anyone with a cheque book could put money into a hot new technology company. Few got out without losing their shirts.

2000年网络泡沫达到峰顶时,几乎所有有点钱的人都去投资购买IT公司的股票,但几乎所有的人都铩羽而归。

But Carmen Busquets, a 46-year-old Venezuelan entrepreneur, managed to make a successful bet on an e-commerce venture, and has gone on to become one of the most important investors for fashion-related internet businesses.

但46岁的委内瑞拉企业家卡门?布斯克茨(Carmen Busquets)却在某电子商务企业大获成功,渐渐成长为在线时尚行业举足轻重的投资行家。

An early backer of Net-A-Porter, she recently made an angel investment in ModaOperandi.com, which allows fashion obsessives to order straight from (and straight after) the runway.

作为在线奢侈品零售商Net-A-Porter网的早期投资人,布斯克茨最近注资ModaOperandi.com网,这家时尚网站允许超级时尚粉丝直接从T型(或发布会后)上定购时装款式。

Ms Busquets’ investing style stands apart from more famous venture capital firms, which shower start-ups with tens of millions of dollars, bestowing young companies with colossal valuations. Instead, she doles out small investments as a company needs capital.

布斯克茨女士的投资风格与那些名气更大的风投公司大相径庭,对方对创业伊始的公司出手阔绰,动辄就是几千万美元,并给它们高得离谱的估值。而布斯克茨女士每次只是给需要资金的企业施以少量投资。

“Why give a million dollars to someone if they have not proved that they can make a million dollars?” she asks. “I learnt this from my father, who would never give us more money than we could make. If I maxed out a credit card, he would cut it.”

“对方还未能证明是否具有1百万美元的赢利能力,为何一下子就注资百万美元呢?”她说。“这招是从我父亲那儿学来的,我们能挣多少,他才给多少,从来都是如此。如果我把信用卡的额度透支到最大,父亲就会削减额度。”

Ms Busquets began making small investments in websites in 1997. “I recognised the huge potential that the internet could provide in order to create, economically sustain, and grow individual success globally,” she says.

布斯克茨女士对时装网站的小额投资始于1997年。“我看到了因特网能够提供的无限商机,目的就在于在全球范围内连续创业、经济上实现可持续以及获得个人成功,”她说。

Three years later, she met Natalie Massenet, who had just founded Net-A-Porter. Ms Busquets invested an initial £250,000 and joined the board. “Each member of her small team of co-founders specialised in a different important area of the business. “For me, the winning strategy in any start-up business is ‘think big but start small’.”

三年后,她遇到了娜塔莉?马斯内(Natalie Massenet),对方刚刚创办Net-A-Porter网。布斯克茨先期投入了25万美元,并进入了董事会。“寥寥几个人的创业团队中,每人各司一方 重要商业领域。就我来说,在创业伊始的公司赢利的策略就是‘高瞻远瞩,但起步要谨小慎微’。”

Over the next five years Ms Busquets increased her stake to £5.9m and brought in as a co-investor Richemont, parent company of Montblanc, Cartier and other luxury brands.

在接下来的五年里,布斯克茨女士把她的投资额增加到590万美元,并成功引入历峰集团(Richemont)作为合伙投资人。历峰集团是万宝龙(Montblanc)、卡地亚(Cartier)以及其它奢侈品牌的母公司。

Net-A-Porter began to turn a profit in 2005 and has grown to become one of the premier destinations for high fashion online. Last year, Richemont bought the 67 per cent of the company it did not already own for $533m. The deal kept Ms Massenet on as chairman, and delivered Ms Busquets a large payday.

Net-A-Porter于2005年开始赢利,并逐渐成长为首屈一指的在线高端时尚公司。去年,历峰集团以5.33亿美元买下了Net-A-Porter剩余的67%股份,完成这笔交易后,布斯克茨女士继续留任董事会主席,并让她一下子挣得盆满钵满。

With the proceeds from the sale, Ms Busquets has again gone looking for investments. Last year, she became lead investor in Caratime, an online jewellery and watch marketplace. And this year, aside from Moda Operandi, she has made five investments in new ventures, buying stakes in GoTryItOn, a social fashion site; Lookk, an online community for designers; JEM, a socially responsible jewellery company; and Astley Clarke, an online jewellery retailer.

用这笔交易的收益,布斯克茨女士再次四处寻找投资机会。去年,她成为法国在线珠宝与手表商城 Caratime主要投资人。今年,除了Moda Operandi外,她已经投资了五家新创的公司:出资购买时尚网站GoTryItOn、在线设计师群体网站Lookk、具有很强社会责任感的珠宝公司 JEM以及在线珠宝零售商城Astley Clarke的股份。

She also increased her investment in CoutureLab, a high-end online gifts site in which she first invested in 2006.

她还增资在线高端礼品网站CoutureLab,2006年她首次投资该网站。

Asked what she looks for in new companies, Ms Busquets says: “Right-sized, good team, strong business plan, credibility, flexibility and creativity. It is also very important to understand who my partners and the lead investor are going to be, that they can make good decisions and follow through.”

当被问及看重新创业公司哪些资质时,布斯克茨女士回答道:“规模适中、团队出色、商业计划无可挑剔、可信度好、灵活性强以及很好的创新力。同样很重要的是要了解商业合伙人与主要出资人未来的发展意图、能够做出正确的决定并能持之以恒。”

Ms Busquets worries that the frenzied climate in Silicon Valley is positioning the industry for another burst bubble.

布斯克茨女士担心的是硅谷失去理智的亢奋正把网络行业带向另一场崩盘。

“Investors are impatient and they are also desperate for the ‘next big thing’ and they are not paying attention to the fact that the ‘next big thing’ can be an economic crisis that they have created by being very irresponsible with their power,” she says.

“投资商表现得不耐烦,变本加厉追求‘下一场经济繁荣’,他们没看到:通过自身不计后果的种种作为,所谓“下一场经济繁荣”可能就会捣鼓出另一场经济危机,”她说。

“We already know this has not been constructive behaviour in the past. It only shows to me lack of creativity and patience.”

“从过去的历史教训,已经知道此举并非长久之计,我从中只是看到了缺乏创新与耐心。”

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