【双语】感怀北京：美中观察
2011-09-25 00:12:21
（作者：徐燕 Xu_Yan）
拥有约20万外籍人口的北京是一座千面之城。要是初来乍到者以为北京可用“传统”、“西化”一言蔽之的话，他就大错特错了。只消坐黄包车，围什刹海转一圈，他就会有别样的感受。
不久前，在什刹海边，黄包车夫带着我在什刹海边及迷宫似的胡同、四合院中转悠。车夫告诉我，什刹海附近的居民因为住的离紫禁城最近，特别有一种皇城根下的优越感，
“可这哪是什么“海”啊，不明明是几条湖吗？”什刹海波光粼粼，我指着湖面不禁问道。
“这道理很简单。”车夫回答，什刹海的确是条湖，只是因为毗邻皇宫，而皇帝是出于海的真龙天子，所以鸡犬升天，湖也成了“海”。
我听了，呵呵一乐。这位车夫看来是个天生会讲故事的人，话匣子一开，他开始侃侃而谈。不过，越听，我对这个有故事的地方越感兴趣，也越困惑。我看见了另一个北京。这个北京，有小翔凤胡同口的牵牛花藤下讲故事的白发老人，有以1.1亿元购得四合院的俄罗斯巨富，有昔日的醇亲王府、今日的国家宗教事务局，有被查封的酒吧…… 各种元素生动地糅杂在一起，很独特，也很陌生。
那次什刹海之行，是我在美国生活多年后第一次回中国小住，也是我第一次去什刹海。虽然出生于距北京东南部1100公里的小城，但对中国的首都，我从不认为自己是陌生人。在来美国之前，我大学本科毕业后的第一份工作就是在北京。而且我以为最难得的是，作为非北京生源的毕业生，我还曾拿到了宝贵的北京户口。
记得当时，远道而来的我对北京一见如故。每天骑着自行车，穿梭于三环的单位与五环的住处之间，看着身边的人流，心中常涌起“我也是北京人”的豪言壮语。即使后来出了国，也常不自觉地把美国的城市与北京作比。纽约像上海，时髦却冷漠，洛杉矶却如北京，大气而亲切，因此我选择了洛杉矶。
可为何现在，看着湖一样大的“海”，我对自己说，这个水，怎么这么深？这个北京，我怎么从未了解过？难道说，以往与北京的亲近感，都只是由于不了解而产生的幻觉？
这样的感觉并不好，甚至有一种被好友欺骗之感，但很快，我就释怀了。什刹海边，有一对夫妻在弹古筝。
琴声流畅亲切，一如我曾了解的北京。
什刹海水，虽浅，却有厚重的政治文化底蕴，让观者不得不敬畏其“深”。
这正如它所代表的城市。作家老向曾说，“我在北平住了30年了，但是我不能说已经认识了北平”。我在北京总计不过5年，更不敢奢言北京。但我相信，世间万物都是有灵性的，城市更是如此。
其实，北京还是那个北京。它有人之灵性，也有人之多层面性。大学毕业初来乍到的我看北京，是一个层面；海外归来思乡心切的我看北京，是一个层面；三环五环间的北京，是一个层面；什刹海边的北京，又是一个层面。
每个层面都是真实的，但并不全面。而北京的可贵之处就在于，无论老少新旧、中外远近，都能在这里找到自己的层面，并从中感受到亲切。北京的亲切正是北京包容之所在，也是北京最可贵之处。
想起朴树那首歌，“这是一个多美丽又遗憾的世界…… 我从远方赶来，赴你一面之约……”不能穷尽层面，看到北京的全貌，不能不说是遗憾，但彼此若有真心赴“一面之约”，也就足矣。
英文对照：
A city of many layers
（作者：徐燕 Xu_Yan）
For those of us who believe Beijing is either thoroughly old-fashioned or highly Westernized, it might be a good idea to take a rickshaw ride in the Shi Cha Hai area.
I did so during a short stay in Beijing some time ago. While carrying me around the warren-like maze of narrowhutongs, and along the banks of the three Shi Cha Hai lakes, the rickshaw puller told me that the residents there have long taken pride in living in a neighborhood next to the Forbidden City, where the imperial palace stands.
"Why do we call them 'hai' (sea)? They are three shallow lakes after all," I asked, pointing to the lakes shimmering in the sun.
"Pretty simple," the rickshaw puller replied. "The emperors claimed to be real dragons and sons of Heaven. How can dragons live next to lakes, not seas?"
That made me laugh. As the talented story-teller continued, I found myself increasingly intrigued, yet bewildered, by stories abounding in the place: Here, the lavish ancient compound was bought out by a mysterious Russian billionaire for 110 million yuan ($16.9 million) in 2007. Over there, underground prostitution once boomed in some night bars and cafes, which have since been forced to close down in the recent clampdown on vice.
That was on my very first visit to Beijing after years of studying and working in the US. Though born in a city 1,100 kilometers southeast of Beijing, I had never considered myself a stranger to the nation's capital. I got my first job offer here before leaving for the US over a decade ago. More importantly, I had a Beijinghukou(residence permit), which is kind of rare for non-Beijing-native graduates.
I recall riding a bicycle every day between my office on the North Third Ring Road and my poky little dormitory on the North Fifth Ring Road, feeling so close to the nation's heart.
Why then, wandering along the banks of the "sea", do I suddenly feel stranger to the city? Why do I feel puzzled, even lost, in the intricate maze of tradition and modernity? Was the once-close bond with the city essentially an illusion arising from my poor, but presumed, knowledge of the city?
Such were the thoughts I was lost in. Until a flow of smooth and melodious music caught my ears. Looking around, I found it was a silver-haired couple enjoying themselves by playing the Chinese zither on the shore.
The music struck a chord in my heart.
Seemingly shallow like lakes, the waters here, witness to various historical and political tides down the ages, could leave us in awe of its depth.
Just like the city it runs through. There is much more here than meets the eye, layers and depths not easily perceived. As the renowned writer Lao Xiang (1901-68) once wrote, "Despite being living here for over 30 years, I can never say I know Beijing." Much less can I, after a mere five years in Beijing.
All the dream-seekers in Beijing are eager to live life to the fullest. Yet no matter how hard we work, we still end up living in our layer of life.
The layer perceived by a new college graduate is different from that in the eye of a compatriot returning from abroad. The layer of life between the North Third and Fifth Ring roads is different from that in the Shi Cha Hai area.
Each layer, however different, is an integral, proud part of the whole piece of Beijing. Each layer provides a genuine, complex picture of where we live, imparting to it new dynamism and strength.
It may be a pity to miss the other, diverse layers of the city in our lifetime, but it has to be accepted. It is okay. Even when waters run deep, and we can still take a sip and enjoy ourselves, isn't it?
(646 words)
