阳光西班牙（二十三）科尔多瓦大清真寺 上

        出团的通知说，在科尔多瓦看清真寺和科尔多瓦大教堂。原来做功课的时候也没整明白，以为是两个临近的古迹。到了这才知道，教堂就是清真寺，是清真寺改成的教堂！

        大清真寺建于8世纪，对于西班牙的穆斯林来说，科尔多瓦是仅次于麦加和耶路撒冷的朝圣之地。原来，和塞维利亚大教堂有异曲同工之妙，大清真寺是穆斯林占领了科尔多瓦，改建了当时西哥特人天主教会的一半，而后基督徒收复失地，又重新改建了清真寺。具有摩尔建筑和西班牙建筑的混合风格，是西班牙伊斯兰教最大的神圣建筑之一。

        公元786年前后，白衣大食王国国王阿卜杜勒·拉赫曼一世欲使科尔多瓦成为与东方匹敌的伟大宗教中心，在罗马神庙和西哥特式教堂的遗址上修建了这个清真寺。到1236年时， 该寺院的面积已比初建时扩大了2倍， 一次就可容纳2万多信徒从事宗教活动。在哈利发希什姆二世时代， 大臣曼苏尔又扩建了斋戒室，到哈里曼三世， 建筑工程达到最高峰。整个建筑为长方形， 长180米， 宽130米， 巍峨雄伟，可与耶路撒冷和麦加的大清真寺媲美。该寺主要分宣礼楼、桔树院、礼拜正殿、圣墓等几部分。桔树院内有一水池，是穆斯林在礼拜前履行净礼的地方。礼拜正殿建筑宏伟， 装饰极为豪华，由斑岩、碧玉和各种颜色的大理石石柱构筑而成。这些石柱或掠夺自法国的尼姆和西班牙的塞维利亚等欧洲城市，或从迦太基的古建废墟上精选而得。现在殿内尚存的850根石柱， 将正殿分成南北19行，每行各有29个拱门的翼廊，每个拱门又各有上下两层马蹄形的拱券。整座正殿玉柱林立、拱廊纵横。

        西班牙占领科尔多瓦后， 于1236年改为天主教大教堂，象征着伊斯兰教的殿堂被封闭16世纪初，阿隆索·曼里克主教代表卡洛斯五世国王全权主持清真寺的改建工程。正殿中的石柱和拱门近三分之一被毁， 从中建起了一座文艺复兴式的大教堂，包括主座堂、王家小礼拜堂、唱诗班等几部分。唱诗班的椅子全是带有华贵的巴洛克雕饰的精湛工艺品，两个讲道台是用桃花心木、大理石、碧玉等镶嵌制成。不过卡洛斯国王的原有的建筑独有情钟，他对改建者们惊呼道：“你们为建起一些在我国到处都能见到的东西而破坏了再也无法找回的东西”。正因为卡洛斯国王及时制止，这座伊斯兰教的大清真寺才得以保持至今， 并因此而成为一座使伊斯兰教文化与基督教文化并存的特殊建筑物， 成为西班牙最著名的宗教旅游胜地。

        这里的好东西太多，大清真寺上就发外观的照片，等到下再挂里面精美的柱厅吧。

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