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教程来源与国外的博客网站，很多国内的网站也多有介绍，本着将世界各地的丝网印刷技术介绍的意图，进行转载，若有误释尽可能的理解。
第一节：如何丝网印刷？
是啊！如何去丝网呢？我一直在画一个小幅的迷你漫画，通过图片来详细的介绍我的制作过程，只是因为它很容易和非常的经济，也很混乱。你应该知道从得到你可能不会是非常高兴你的初步结果…你的线条会变得模糊，你可能会失去一些细节会有墨水污迹到布面上。但最终你会找到什么样的艺术作品中最好的，你的刮刀技术将得到更好的发挥，我想这样的努力是值得的！
 1）屏幕本身：这是木制的（或在高科技的情况下，轻量的金属）框架。我爸爸用我的木头为我建造这些，有时我甚至用了廉价的相框。只要它的平面（即它奠定了平面上的桌子），你可以拉伸丝，你可以使用它。现在，我建立我自己的框架的1个“1”从家得宝。这是一定要做的最便宜的方式，如果你有机会到一个车间，或至少是一个tablesaw。这也很好，因为你可以建立帧的任何大小或形状你想要。这里是什么样子 1) THE SCREEN ITSELF: this is the wooden (or in hi-tech cases, lightweight metal) frame. My dad used to build these for me out of scrap wood, sometimes I've even used cheap picture frames. As long as it's flat (i.e. it lays flat on the table), and you can stretch silk on it, you can use it. Now, I build my own frames out of 1"x1"s from Home Depot. This is definitely the cheapest way to do it if you have access to a workshop, or at least a tablesaw. This is also nice cuz you can build frames to any size or shape you want. Here's what it looks like
 我买的“丝绸之路”（不是真的丝绸，这是一个综合polyfiliament目）的院子里。你可以在更好的艺术商店或网上得到它（我用dickblick.com；他们以合理的价格有一个很好的供应各种丝网印刷用品）。我剪了一块比我的屏幕尺寸大一点的。然后我把丝绸固定在框架上。我这买切1 / 4“槽到1x1的（再次用台锯），然后用绳夹收紧丝 I buy the 'silk' (it's not really silk, it's a synthetic polyfiliament mesh) by the yard. You can get it at nicer art stores or online (I use dickblick.com; they have a pretty nice supply of all kinds of screenprinting supplies at reasonable prices). I cut a piece a little larger than my screen size. Then I fasten the silk to the frame. I do this buy cutting a 1/4" groove into the 1x1's (again with the table saw), then use some thin rope to pinch and tighten up the silk
 你还可以用钉钉来把丝绸钉在框架上，像是一种装饰。只要确保丝绸是紧的，甚至在框架上拧紧。缺点是，如果你需要的话，从帧中取出丝绸很难。好了，说了这么多，我可能会建议只买pre-fab框架+丝组合开始了。你可以只是去商店买一个现成的艺术画面，在一些流行的尺寸。这是一个非常非常的方式去为初学者，特别是如果你没有进入一个讲习班。根据大小（大的预制的屏幕，更昂贵的），它将花费15美元到25美元。请记住，你可以重新使用这个屏幕永远，但可能只有能够使用丝绸也许3或4倍的顶部。为了能够重新使用屏幕，你需要一瓶被称为“模板剂”的化学物质，它将在以后清洗干净。一瓶这种东西大概花费10美元。
步骤1的总成本：30美元 You can also just use staples to hold the silk to the frame, sort of like upholstery. Just make sure the silk is tight and even tightened across the frame. The downside of this is that it's harder to remove the silk from the frame later, if you need to. OKAY, having said all that, I would probably recommend just buying a PRE-FAB frame+silk combo to start out. You can basically just go into the art store and buy a readymade screen, in one of a few popular sizes. This is pretty much the way to go for a starter, especially if you don't have access to a workshop. Depending on the size (the bigger the prefab screen, the more expensive), it will cost between $15 and $25 bucks. Keep in mind that you can re-use this screen forever, but will probably only be able to use the silk maybe 3 or 4 times tops. In order to be able to re-use the screen, you'll need a bottle of chemicals called "Stencil Remover", which will clean out the silk later. A bottle of this stuff probably cost $10.
Total cost for step 1: $30  2）涂料/干燥的画面：做任何事情之前，你需要给你的屏幕快速冲洗/清洗只是一些家用dishsoap或液体肥皂 2) COATING/DRYING THE SCREEN: Before doing anything, you need to give your screen a quick rinsing/cleaning with just some household dishsoap or liquid soap
 好吧，让它干了，现在你准备好“笨蛋”乳液屏幕。乳液是绿色的东西，你会在屏幕上覆盖，然后让干燥过夜。乳液是一种由两部分组成的感光咕：乳液和敏化剂。当你从艺术商店（或在线）购买它的时候，它就在两只瓶子里，当你准备在屏幕上外套时，你就可以在一起了。当你添加的增敏剂，它变得敏感，所以你想在低光快、工作。我用Speedball品牌“重”工具包，它是廉价的，易于使用，并持续一段时间。这种东西的组合套件（包括两个组件）的成本约为18美元
Okay, let that dry, and now you're ready to "goop" the screen with emulsion. Emulsion is the green stuff that you will cover the screen in, and then let dry overnight. Emulsion is a photo-sensitive goo made up of two components: emulsion and sensitizer. When you buy it from the art store (or online) it comes in two bottles, that you mix together right when you're ready to coat the screen. When you add the sensitizer, it becomes light-sensitive, so you'll want to work quickly and in low light. I use the Speedball brand "Diazo" kit, which is inexpensive, easy to use, and lasts for a while. A combo kit of this stuff (including both components) costs about $18  倒一粒复合液体沿着屏幕边缘。你想用一个硬纸板，说明板或刮板推，以及在屏幕上。坚持做下去，翻转屏来回，两边涂，直到整个屏幕被蒙上了一层薄薄的，均匀的涂层的绿色粘液。
Pour a bead of combined goop along one edge of the screen. You'll want to use a stiff piece of cardboard, illustration board, or a squeegee to push the goop across the screen. Keep doing it, flipping the screen back and forth, coating both sides, until the whole screen is covered in a thin, even coating of green goo  不欣赏你的杰作太久，因为你需要在你的暗室/干燥室抽油。你需要让这种涂层完全干燥在一个完全黑暗的地方。如果你的屏幕足够小，你可以用一个抽屉，或者在一个纸板箱下面。我的屏幕通常是大的，所以我用的是唯一的房间，我可以完全封闭的光，我的浴室
Don't admire your handiwork for too long, cuz you need to get that sucker in your darkroom/drying chamber. You need to let this coated screen completely dry in a completely dark place. If your screen is small enough, you can use a drawer, or underneath a cardboard box. My screens are usually kind of big though, so I use the only room I can completely seal off from light, my bathroom 正如你所看到的图片，这也让我把一个风扇在那里加快干燥过程（它需要3个小时，而不是一夜）。它需要完全的黑暗，所以我用一条毛巾盖住小淋浴的窗户，把毛巾放在门下的裂缝里。
步骤2的总成本：18美元 As you can see in the pic, this also allows me to put a fan in there to speed up the drying process (it'll take 3 hours rather than overnight). It needs to be totally dark in there, so I cover the small shower window with a towel and stuff a towel in the crack under the door.
Total cost for step 2: $18
 3）准备你的艺术，而屏幕干燥，这将是一个很好的时间来完成你的作品。我会保持厚实的艺术品类，图形和简单的（无细，羽毛线或剖面线）。如果那里有文字，我就不会走到14点。
3) PREPARING YOUR ART While the screen is drying, this would be a good time to finalize your artwork. I'd keep the artwork sort of chunky, graphic and simple (no fine, feathered lines or crosshatching). If there's text in there, I wouldn't go below 14 pt.  好吧，一旦你把你的艺术都准备好了，你需要把它转移到清晰的。我是通过扫描我的艺术（我做彩色SEP的Adobe Illustrator无论如何，所以我的艺术已经以数字形式），只是将板材（或表）通过我的激光打印机醋酸盐。或者，你可以去Kinko和他们复制你的艺术醋酸。即使你要打印出银色或橙色的墨水，也要有你的“正面”印刷品。如果你做的多的颜色，你需要有醋酸分离片（最终分离式屏幕完全），其中每一个具有不同的黑色阳性（图一）。
步骤3的总成本：2美元？
Okay, once you've got your art all ready, you need to transfer it to clear acetate. I do this by scanning my art (I do my color sep's in Adobe Illustrator anyway, so my art is already in digital form) and just feeding a sheet (or sheets) of acetate through my laserjet printer. Alternately, you could just go to Kinko's and have them copy your art to acetate. Even if you're gonna end up printing silver or orange ink or whatever, just have your art 'positive' printed in BLACK. If your doing mutiple colors, you'll need to have separate sheets of acetate (and eventually separate screens entirely), each of them with a different black positive
Total cost for step 3: $2 ?
 4）暴露在屏幕上，这是你要删除你的涂层，干燥的屏幕从干燥室和“刻录”你的艺术品模板上。这有助于理解这一部分的科学。虽然屏幕上是干的，还是有可塑性的绿色液体，并能冲洗掉，如果你把它放在你的浴室。那就是，直到光变硬了。每一个光子撞击感光很会变硬并使其防水，这基本上是你要做什么。除了你要把你的光和屏幕之间的酯片，以及在保护你的作品的黑色区域。这是我的光'曝光站'看起来像
4) EXPOSING THE SCREEN This is where you're gonna remove your coated, dry screen from the drying chamber and 'burn' your artwork stencil on to it. It helps to understand the science of this part. Even though the screen is dry, the green goop on there is still malleable, and able to be rinsed out, if you were to put it under your shower. That is, until light hardens it. Every photon that hits the light-sensitive goo will harden it and make it water-proof, which is basically what you're gonna do. Except your gonna put your sheet of acetate between the light and screen, protecting the goop beneath the black areas of your artwork. Here's what my light 'exposure station' looks like 在这一步，只有真正的专业项目是250W泛光灯，你可以从一些硬件或艺术商店。你可以把他们从dickblick.com。成本仅为4美元或5美元。重要的是，因为它只需要15或10分钟，而不是一个半小时，一个普通灯泡的一半。屏幕下方的黑色文件有助于吸收杂散光，并将玻璃将你的作品放在屏幕上（消除你的艺术之下的小阴影）。很高兴有这样一块玻璃板装在框架（比框架小，但比你的艺术品更大），但如果你没有它，你可以只使用一点点透明磁带举行的醋酸。好吧，所以这里发生了什么事情是这样的：光的聚焦锥是硬化所有屏幕上的粘性物质，除具隐藏在你作品的不透明的黑色区域。的Speedball乳液工具包带有一个小图表告诉你多久暴露你的屏幕，以及如何高远离屏幕灯泡应。
步骤4的总成本：10美元 The only real specialty item in this step is the 250w photoflood lightbulb, which you can get from some hardware or art stores. You can definitely get them from dickblick.com. The cost is only $4 or $5. It is important to have that because it will only take 10 or 15 minutes to expose rather than an hour and a half with a regular bulb. The black paper beneath the screen helps absorb the stray light, and the glass holds your artwork flat to the screen (to eradicate little shadows beneath your art). It's nice to have that sheet of glass fit into the frame (smaller than the frame, but larger than your artwork), but if you don't have it, you can just use little pieces of clear tape to hold the acetate down. Okay, so what's happening here is this: the focused cone of light is hardening all the goo on the screen, except for the goo hidden beneath the opaque black areas of your artwork. The Speedball emulsion kit comes with a little chart telling you how long to expose your screen, and how high away from the screen the bulb should be.
Total cost for step 4: $10
 5）漂洗屏幕好，这是有趣的部分。这也是你能真正把它搞得一团糟的地方！一旦你完成了指定的时间，在屏幕上的时间，删除的玻璃和醋酸，并采取您的屏幕上的浴室，洗衣房，或在这些花园软管。你需要一个相当强大的水流冲洗仍然可塑的粘性（一直隐藏你的黑色艺术品下面积）出屏幕。我有一个'按摩器附件'在我的淋浴，这个应用程序是完美的。当你开始在屏幕上移动的水的水流，你会看到你的图像慢慢开始出现在丝绸
5) RINSING THE SCREEN Okay, this is the fun part. This is also the part where you can really mess it up! As soon as you've finished exposing the screen for the specified amount of time, remove the glass and acetate and take your screen into the bathroom, laundry sink, or outside to those garden hose. You're gonna need a fairly powerful stream of water to rinse the still malleable goo (the areas that had been hidden under your black artwork) out of the screen. I have one of those 'massager attachments' on my shower and it's perfect for this application. As you start moving the stream of water over the screen, you'll see your image slowly start to emerge on the silk 为你冲洗，偶尔抓住你的屏幕上的光，看看如何好笨蛋是涮。这是一个微妙的过程；如果你用得太久，你就会开始删除你不想要太地区。如果你不洗足够长的时间（或如果你过度暴露在步骤4中你的屏幕），你的作品更好的地区不会成为完全的刷，不会显示在你的指纹。如果有些领域特别顽固，不会冲洗掉，你可以用你的手指或软刷轻轻按摩或放松
As you rinse, occasionally hold your screen up to the light, to see how well the goop is rinsing out. It's a delicate process; if you rinse for too long, you'll start to obliterate areas you don't want too. If you don't rinse long enough (or if you over-exposed your screen in step 4), the finer areas of your artwork won't become fully stencilled and won't show up on your prints. If some areas are particularly stubborn and won't rinse out, you can use your finger or a soft brush to sort of gently massage or loosen it up 这一部分可能是棘手的，所以不要气馁，如果不得不把事情搞砸了。只使用模板剂清洗剂清洗所有的乳液，让屏幕干燥，并从明天开始！
步骤5的总成本：0美元 This part can be tricky, so don't be discouraged if have to mess up and do it over. Just use the stencil remover chemical to wash out all the emulsion, let the screen dry, and start over tomorrow!
Total cost for step 5: $0
6）印刷品！！！其实，这是有趣的部分。这里是你的屏幕准备充分，你可以真正开始打印。你的屏幕应该是完全干燥的，你可以使用磁带（屏蔽，管道，任何），以帮助关闭你的屏幕边缘
6) MAKING PRINTS!!! Actually, this is the fun part. Here is where your screen is fully prepared and you can actually start printing. Your screen should be totally dry, and you can use tape (masking, duct, anything) to help seal off the edge of your screen 这只会使事情变得更容易，当你打印（即油墨不会收集木块等下）也会掩盖在乳液针孔和其他不需要的孔。如果你看到一些不应该被看到的区域，你可以用小纸片来掩盖这些。好吧，现在你已经准备好打印了。你需要买一个刮板（8美元- 15美元）和什么颜色的油墨要（6美元- 8美元一瓶）。当然，你要打印的纸张。想从这里出去是很容易的：你的位置你的文章在你的屏幕?使用标记在桌子上，或条带让你在同一个地方在每张纸打印。在这张照片中，我用胶带把那张纸贴在我的纸上，让我有一个更好的想法，我想让屏幕上的屏幕上
This will just make things easier when you print (i.e. ink won't be collecting under the wood pieces etc.) and will also cover up pinholes and other unwanted holes in the emulsion. If you see little see-through areas that aren't supposed to be see-through, you can use little pieces of tape to cover those up too. Okay, now you're ready to print. You'll need to buy a squeegee ($8 - $15) and whatever color of inks you want ($6 - $8 a jar). And of course the paper you want to print on. It's pretty easy to figure out from here: You position your paper beneath your screen?use marks on the table, or pieces of tape so that you're printing at the same place on each sheet of paper. In this pic I taped the acetate to my paper to give me a better idea of exactly where I wanted the screen to go on top of it 你可能想要建立一个“铰链”系统，为你的屏幕，这样你就可以提高和降低它的精确相同的地方每次。我有实际的金属铰链，但我只是把几条胶带沿框架的背面部分的一个'穷人的'铰链系统
You may want to set up kind of a 'hinge' system for your screen, so that you can raise and lower it to the exact same place everytime. I have actual metal hinges, but I used to just put a few strips of duct tape along the back part of the frame for sort of a 'poor-man's' hinge system 好吧，一旦你注册了，就可以刮。dallop珠墨沿着你的作品的边缘
Okay, once you've got your registration figured out, it's ready to squeegee. Dallop a bead of ink along an edge of your artwork 然后拖动刮板沿艺术品
And then drag the squeegee along the artwork 有不同的刮刀技术意见；你真的要弄清楚什么最适合你。我通常做一对夫妇的本钱，只是为了确保我得到所有领域的重墨。但他们很快挥笔，以不太多的墨水在纸上的东西。抬起屏幕，把你的打印输出，对齐下面的一个新的表，并再次做它！我用Speedball油墨（一切都在这一过程中描述我是水便于清理），以15或20分钟干。我最终在我的公寓周围铺设打印，而他们正在干燥
There are differing opinions on squeegee technique; you really just have to figure out what works best for you. I usually do a couple of swipes, just to make sure I get all the areas heavily inked. But they're pretty quick swipes, as to not gunk too much ink on the paper. Lift up the screen, pull your print out, align a fresh sheet underneath of there, and do it again! I use the Speedball inks (everything I describe in this process is water-based for easy clean-up), which take 15 or 20 minutes to dry. I end up laying prints all around my apartment while they're drying 如果你做的多色印刷，再做一遍！清理一切，从头开始。警告：注册将更重要的这一次！最终打印是（图）。
步骤6的总成本：25美元 If you're doing multi-color prints, do it all over again! Clean everything up, and start over. Warning: registration will be even more important this time! Final print is .
Total cost for step 6: $25 对不起，杂乱。我希望这有助于！看起来，总计费用为80美元至100美元，但很多东西会持续很长一段时间，特别是屏幕，灯泡，和刮刀。你最终会用完的化学品和墨水，但你可以做一些版本的打印出来。这将需要一些时间和精力，但希望将是有益的。
Sorry for the rambling. I hope some of this helps! It looks like the total cost comes out to $80 - $100, but a lot of this stuff lasts for a really long time, especially the screen, lightbulb, and squeegee. You'll eventually run out of the chemicals and inks, but you'll be able to do several editions of prints out of them. It will take some time and effort but hopefully will be rewarding.
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