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复古风潮的宝库|假如非要给古董衣的美设定期限,我希望是一万年...

 掌染草2012 2016-05-02


左衽中国|文字/编辑:Y.


复古元素作为流行元素之一,在女装设计中具有不可替代的位置,它们既是相对的,又是彼此之间相互转化的。怀旧为复古设计提供了具象的主题和情绪的参照物,设计师又从时空的疏离感中获得了广阔的自由度,让古典诗意重生,成为流行。


Late 16th century women's dress ensemble, Spanish, made of silk and linen, The Metropolitan Museum of Art (detail)


Stunning and sumptuous embroidery detail of Court suit Frockcoat, late 18th–early 19th century, French



W. Larkin, Lady Dorothy Cary, detail 1615



Court dress, ca 1900 Russia



Court dress, ca 1900 Russia



Complete suit from the 17th century. It's a map! untraceable, no futher info


Detail rear view,court coat, France or Spain, 1790s with later alterations. 



Detail, coat and waistcoat, 1790s. Brown patterned silk, lavishly embroidered with floral motifs in polychrome silk



Detail 3-piece court suit, 1770-1785, made in France and imported to England. 


刺绣作为一种带有时代烙印的装饰手段,历来深受各国文化与科技的影响,它之所以能始终长久的占据着重要的地位,不仅是因为自身的文化底蕴,更重要的,还要数它持续更新的技术手段,并不断结合流行为其塑造的崭新形象。


Court suit detail of Frockcoat, Waistcoat and breeches, late 18th–early 19th century, French, silk, metallic thread, paste (c) Metropolitan Museum of Art



Rear view of Frockcoat, part of a Court suit, late 18th–early 19th century, French, silk, metallic thread, paste (c) Metropolitan Museum of Art



French Court Suit, 1750–75 Medium- silk, metal thread Divine



Court Suit Date- 1750–75 Culture- French Medium- silk, metal thread



Indian Wedding Gown



Beautiful detail of red silk velvet gown with the exquisite silver thread embroidery



Broderie marocaine



Frockcoat Pocket Embroidery detail of Suit, 1774-93, French, silk


England, Great Britain. 1730-1739 Artist/Maker: Unknown. Silk satin, silver thread, spangles, silk thread


复古风潮席卷之时,如将华丽而又含蓄的柔美刺绣应用在服装设计中,会带给人们耳目一新的感觉。虽然可能大都是已被人们遗忘到成为细枝末节的时代印记,在工匠的巧手与设计师的妙思下又能重焕生机。通过设计的加工再造,这些古典元素的细节便可以做出不可思议的流行风貌。


18th century Italian chasuble Met Museum ref no 1984.462.1



Silk dress fabric by Madame Dellac, American, c.1878



Corporal box Place of origin- Italy Date- ca. 1560-1570 Materials and Techniques- Embroidered silk and linen, with bobbin lace insertion Museum number-5958-1859



First Consul jacket owned by Napoleon Bonaparte, 1800 From the Chateau de Malmaison Costume Collection



First Consul jacket owned by Napoleon Bonaparte, 1800 From the Chateau de Malmaison Costume Collection


Peter II red wool suit --The Moscow Kremlin Museums



Embroidery detail from the court dress belonging to the Chateau de Malmaison collection



Embroidery detail from the court dress belonging to the Chateau de Malmaison collection



Embroidery detail from the court dress belonging to the Chateau de Malmaison collection



Detail Alexander McQueen dress for Givenchy, Lesage embroidery of blossom and foliage



Detail from Gentleman's Ensemble , France, 1774-92


不同时期遗存的古董衣及其背后的故事,代代相传的珍贵工艺等等这些数不清的历史瑰宝启发了无数设计师的灵感,并令他们为之深深着迷,有效运用复古元素,将其打破、重组、创新,创作出个人风格和流行统一的独特作品是设计师们的共同追求,但假如非要给古董衣的美设定期限,我希望是一万年...



Detail, Man's Court Suit, French, 1785-1792.



Detail of a suit that belonged to Axel von Fersen, made in Paris around the 1785.



Detail of embroidery to neckline (top) and pocket, cuff and front of a late 18th Century waistcoat of silk and linen with polychrome silk stitching and covered wire buttons



Early 18th century stomacher


Costume worn by Napoleon to his coronation as king of Italy, 1805 From the Stibbert Museum



Detail buttons, 3-piece court suit, 1770-1785, made in France and imported to England



Gold embroidery on red wool collar, hand-embroidered ca. 1800



17C cloak with embroidery



Robe, mid 19th Century, TurkishMet Museum



Embroidery cuff and covered button detail, Frockcoat, 18th century



17th century embroidery at the Royal Armoury in Sweden - detail of chain border is amazing



French waist coat 1775



Elaborate gold embroidery on high-ranking French officer's uniform



Gold embroidered cutwork jacket



18th century Culture- European Medium- silk, metal thread


Detail, robe à la francaise, 1760s. Grey-blue silk brocade woven with a pattern of polychrome floral sprays, self-fabric trimming.



Satin Gauntlet embroidered with silk and metallic thread, purl and spangles, trimmed with silk ribbon and silver-gilt bobbin lace… English c. 1600-1625



Tail coat Date- third quarter 18th century Culture- French Medium- silk



Coat Date- 1775 Culture- French Medium- silk



Coat Date- third quarter 18th century Culture- British Medium- silk



Button detail- Frockcoat, third quarter 18th century, French



Coat, Britain, 1770-1779 (made), Wool and silk, handwoven, silver, gold



Embroidery detail of an early 18th Century French Metallic Gold Stomacher | Trouvais



Linen purse with silk embroidery depicting lovers, French (Paris), c. 1340.



Purse, date- last quarter 16th century Culture- British Medium- silk, gold, silver, linen



1900,Court robe,Russian,silk, metallic threads and paillettes ,at The Metropolitan Museum of Art



French court dress, 1750



Gentleman's Ensemble - detail of frockcoat buttons and waistcoat embroidery Date- ca. 1765 French Medium- silk, metal



Doublet - detail of embroidery. ca 1580, European, Silk, metallic thread brass



Detail of skirts of A gentleman's embroidered green velvet court coat, French, circa 1790, heavily embellished with floss silk flowerheads and foliage



Evening coat, 1920s–30s, Japanese. Medium- silk, metallic thread | The Metropoitan Museum of Art



Wedding ensemble


  

  

  

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