![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Needles: US size 6 (4mm) Gauge: 24 sts = 4 inches (10 cm) in plain stockinette after blocking Finished Size: 9 inches (23 cm) wide and 78 (198 cm) inches long after blocking Additional Resources: My free video tutorial for making the Crown of Glory knit motif A free tutorial for blocking lace using this pattern. Stitch Key k – knit p – purl Sl – With yarn held to the back, slip one stitch from left needle to right needle as if to purl. ssk – Slip two stitches one at a time from the left to the right needle as if to purl. Insert the left tip into the front of those two slipped stitches and knit them together (a decrease). k2tog – Knit next two stitches together (a decrease). p2tog – Purl next two stitches together (a decrease). p2tog-b – Purl next two stitches together through the back loop (a decrease). YO – Yarn over the right needle (an increase). Inc4 – Into the next stitch work 5 new stitches. Do this by *k1, p1* twice and then k1 once more (an increase of 4 stitches). W&T – Slip the next stitch from left to right needle as if to purl. Bring the yarn forward. Slip that same stitch back to the left needle. Put yarn to the back (this completes the “wrap”). Turn the work and begin next row. PuW – The next stitch is a “wrapped” stitch. Using the right needle, go under the wrap from the bottom. Place it on the left needle. Using the (previously) wrapped stitch, and the picked-up wrap, k2tog. BO – Bind off. Knit one stitch. Then *k1, use the left tip to pass the first knitted stitch over the second* and repeat as needed. Some general notes: The total number of stitches changes from row to row. There is shaping done on both the right side and wrong side rows. Row 3 and 4 are where the big eyelet is made. If you get stuck, try my free video tutorial on making the Crown of Glory motif. ![]() ![]() ![]() Cast on 49 stitches. Set up rows 1 (RS): Sl, k46, YO, ssk (49 sts) 2 (WS): k 3: Sl, k46, YO, ssk (49 sts) 4: k Crown of Glory Lace 1 (RS): Sl, k1, YO, k2, *ssk, k9, k2tog, k1* three times, *k1, YO, ssk (44 sts) 2: (WS): k3, p1, *p2tog, p7, p2tog-b, p1* three times, k to end (38 sts) 3: Sl, k1, YO, k3, *ssk, k2 (YO x 3), k3, k2tog, k1* three times, k1, YO , ssk (42 sts) 4: k3, p1, *p2tog, p2, Inc4, p1, p2tog-b, p1* three times, k to end (42 sts) 5: Sl, k1,YO, k4, *ssk, k6, k2tog, k1* three times, k1, YO, ssk (37 sts) 6: k3, p1, *p2tog, p7* three times, k to end (34 sts) 7: Sl, k1, YO, k5, *k1, (YO, k1) x 6, k1*, three times, k1, YO, ssk (53 sts) 8: k3, p43, k to end (53 sts) 9: Sl, k1, YO, k33, W&T 10: p28, k to end (54 sts) 11: BO5, k30, PuW, k15, YO, ssk (49 sts) 12: k3, p43, k3 Work Rows 1 – 12 a total of 31 times… if your gauge is my gauge. If your stitches are wider/looser then you may not get the full 31 repeats before running short on yarn. But at 24 sts = 4 inches you should get the full length and have about 10 grams of yarn left over. Finish off rows 1 (RS): Sl, k46, YO, ssk (49 sts) 2 (WS): k 3: Sl, k46, YO, ssk (49 sts) 4: k Bind off all stitches, weave in ends and block. You can find a photo tutorial for blocking this lace right here. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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