At the beginning of this year I decided I wanted to be a bit more daring with my knitting and crocheting. Which is why I designed a raglan sweater from scratch in both a mama version and a mini munchkin version, with only this raglan as prior experience!
The mama version is in the late stages of completion, but the mini version is finished [as you can see] and has been keeping baby warm and cozy. It’s one of those sweaters that sits far out on the shoulders so that it’s easier to put his head in and allows for air flow. I thought this might bother me at first (I’m not usually a fan of the wide necklines on baby sweaters), so I considered picking up stitches to add a ribbed collar but decided against it in the end. Little man is growing into it nicely.
 
Below are instructions to make a baby sweater nearly identical to the one pictured (I just tweaked the ribbing on the back bottom edge and the sleeves a tad bit for the written pattern).
P.S. This sweater uses the kfb increase. If this is a new increase for you, here is a tutorial from All Free Knitting that should fill you in quickly!
~N O B L E E L I O T T~
[Materials]
-2 skeins Patons Classic Wool Roving (120 yd/109 m each), “Dark Grey”
-US size 9 circular needles
-US size 9 DPN’s (optional if preferred-just switch to them when knitting the smaller sections)
[Gauge]
~4.15 sts. / 1 in. stockinette
[Size]
6-12 months (pictured below on large 4 1/2 mo. old)
[Finished Measurements]
Chest circumference: 23″ Sweater length: 10″ Sleeve Length (from underarm): 6.5″
Neck width: 6″ Wrist circumference: 7″
[K E Y]
p purl k knit k1fb increase slm slip marker bo bind off
ssk decrease k2tog decrease
Sleeve stitch pattern (4 stitches):
- p1, k2, p1
- purl all stitches when working flat, knit all stitches when joined in the round
Back panel stitch pattern (16 stitches):
- p1, k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p2, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p1
- purl all stitches when working flat, knit all stitches when joined in the round
Instructions:
SETUP
- Cast on 32 stitches as follows, using US size 9 circular needles: 1 st, pm, 6 sts, pm, 18 sts, pm, 6 sts, pm, 1 st.
PLACING STITCH PATTERN MARKERS
- Front: k1fb, slm, Sleeve: k1fb, pm, p1, k2, p1, pm, k1fb, slm, Back: k1fb, pm, p1, k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p2, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, pm, k1fb, slm, Sleeve: k1fb, pm, p1, k2, p1, pm, k1fb, slm, Front: k1fb
YOKE
- Purl all sts. Repeat this step for every WS row until you join in the round.
- Now work all RS rows from “Flat” diagram pictured below and purl all WS rows until back section measures ~1.5″ in length, ending on a RS row.
- At the end of the last RS row, CO 16 sts using the backward loop method. Join in the round and place a new marker in the center of those stitches you just casted on. Knit all the way back around to this marker. This is now the beginning of round.
- Now work 1 round as shown in the “In the Round” diagram below (we’ll call this an A round). Then knit 1 round (we’ll call this a B round). Work this A-B sequence until sleeve portions measure ~4″ long measured from collar, ending on an A round.
SEPARATE SLEEVES
- On the next B round, knit around as established and remove the *sleeve markers* (not sleeve stitch pattern markers) as you come to them, placing all sleeve sts on waste yarn. Place a new marker at the center of each underarm.
BODY
- Continue working in established A-B sequence until the sweater measures ~8″ from back neck, ending on a B round. [IF you would like a longer sweater, just work 1 or 2 more inches until it measures 9 or 10”.] Cut the yarn and leave a tail to weave in. You will now work the bottom ribbing of the sweater flat.
BOTTOM RIB (FRONT)
- Rejoin your yarn to the right-hand side of the sweater (use your underarm marker as your placement guide). Work front rib, then join yarn to work back rib and work back rib. I had 92 body stitches so I worked 46 for the front and 46 for the back.
- Front rib: There are 26 center stitches for this rib pattern. Count them out and place a marker on each side of these center 26 sts. Then work the front rib: (RS) *P1, K1* to marker, slm, P2, K1, P2, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P2, K2, P2, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P2, K1, P2, slm, *K1, P1* to end. (WS) P to marker, slm, K2, P1, K2, P5, K2, P2, K2, P5, K2, P1, K2, slm, P to end. Repeat until rib measures ~2″. Count your rows to make sure your front rib back rib will be exactly the same length! BO all sts using a stretchy BO. I used the k2tog tbl method here.
BOTTOM RIB (BACK)
- Work back rib as follows: (RS) P1, *K1, P1* to back stitch pattern marker, work back stitch pattern as established, slm, *P1, K1* to last st, P1. (WS) P6, K1, *P1, K1* to back st pattern marker, slm, p to next marker, slm, K1, *P1, K1* to end. Work the same number of rows for the back as you did for the front and bind off all stitches using the stretchy BO. You will make two sleeves now.
SLEEVES
- Pick up all sleeve sts work these 6 rounds 3 times: ROUNDS 1, 3, 5-K all sts. ROUNDS 2 & 4-K to sleeve stitch pattern, work sleeve stitch pattern, k to end. ROUND 6-K2tog, k to sleeve stitch pattern & work, k to last 2 sts, ssk. If sleeves don’t yet measure 3.5″ after working the 6 steps 3 times, continue alternating between step 1 & 2 until they do and then move on to the sleeve ribbing.
- Ribbing: Round 1: There are 14 center sts. Count them out and place markers at each side. *P1, K1* to 2 sts before marker, slm, K1, P1, K1, P1, K6, P1, K1, P1, K1, slm, *K1, P1* to end. Round 2: Work all stitches until marker as for round 1, work center stitches like so: K5, P1, K2, P1, K5, slm, work stitches to end as in previous round. Work rib until it measures 3.5″. BO using stretchy BO.
FINISHING
- Weave in all ends and neatly sew underarms closed.
- Block as desired.
…
Happy Knitting!
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