峰峰新区在地图上叫临水镇,论年纪比我们年轻许多,应该是峰峰矿区将行政区从老峰峰镇迁徙过来时才逐渐形成的,估计其基本框架早先也就是滏阳河两岸的纸坊、盐店等几个小村子吧。
除了南响堂石窟,周边的玉皇阁、滏口陉和磁州窑址等,其实也是可以顺捎着看一看的,何况无需门票。
玉皇阁、滏口陉就在滏阳河北岸的公路边上,头天去南响堂寺途中就瞅见了,但当时顾不得停车。
次日一早寻了过来,停好车拎着相机仔细端详着这座雄峙古滏口关隘的巍峨楼阁,却被它灰头土脸的邋遢相噎得喘不过气来。
唉,灰蒙蒙的天,灰蒙蒙的地,灰蒙蒙的屋子,灰蒙蒙的心绪,这么标准的灰色调,的确很中国、很中国。
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从无梁殿下来,想着走两步滏口古道,却一时找不到该从哪儿踏足。既然标志碑立在这儿,那么古道始于玉皇阁腹下的拱门应该合乎情理,然后顺着滏阳河边的鼓山山脚,擦过南响堂寺,一路蜿蜒向西……
这般琢磨着,便斜插着往里走去。一番探寻无果,除了一座残破的寨门,周边散布极其普通的村巷、民宅,再无任何可凭阐发思古幽情的蛛丝马迹。
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或许,成就过无数英雄,送走过万千亡灵的漫漫险隘古道,如今已被时代的利刃切割得支离破碎,消弭于无形,只余这方冰冷的石碑,诉说着曾经的金戈铁马,鼓角争鸣。
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磁州窑址也是处“国保”,与“玉皇阁”所不同的是,这处古窑址应是与磁县其它几处古窑址一同打包列入“国保”的,这里算是一个“文保点”。
这片区域古时隶属磁县,另立“峰峰”的山头也就是近几十年的事。
![滏阳河畔:玉皇阁 <wbr>· <wbr>滏口陉 <wbr>· <wbr>磁州窑 滏阳河畔:玉皇阁 <wbr>· <wbr>滏口陉 <wbr>· <wbr>磁州窑](http://pubimage.360doc.com/wz/default.gif)
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如今这里保留着从元代到清代的古瓷窑及古作坊遗址,既像博物馆,也是相关职业院校的教学基地,还像是一个展示磁州窑产品的窗口。
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一位女教师热情地接待了我们。显然,她对自己家乡悠久的烧瓷历史非常自豪,不仅开门领我们参观了元代窑址和现在仍在使用的古作坊,介绍起琳琳琅琅的当代制瓷大师的作品更是如数家珍,令我们受益匪浅,大饱眼福。
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元代窑遗址
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