影迷之星 / Face : 赵杭 / Rum Zhao

赵杭 Rum Zhao / 摄影 Photography：Robin Mas

我爱朗姆，所以我叫自己Rum。原因呢，是因为朗姆分白朗姆、黑朗姆和金朗姆，而这三类朗姆又恰好反映了生命中的三个不同阶段。我的生活一开始是像百加得白，那是一段无忧无虑而天真懵懂的时光。工作几年之后，如今我有了更多经验，处在黑朗姆阶段。在我经历了人生的诸多起落之后，当我的思想都更加成熟之后，我会进入金朗姆的阶段。那时候，我会历练出许多故事和智慧，一如哈瓦纳7年。

I love rum, that’s why I chose the name. Why? Because in the rum category, there is white, dark and golden rum, and each of these expressions reflect the different stages of our lives. My life started out like a Bacardi white; I was carefree and innocent. After working for several years, building my experience, I’m now at my dark rum stage. But after going through all of life’s trials and tribulations, after your thoughts have been subjected to certain “ageing”, I hope to enter my golden rum years. I’ll be like a Havana Club 7-year – a man of stories and wisdom.

当调酒师的技巧、技术和知识都差不多的情况下，给你的客人不同的体验才是制胜法宝。从客人踏进酒吧那一刻起，我就开始为他们服务，直到他们离开的那一刻。如果烟灰缸里有超过三根烟头，就一定要换掉。如果客人的水杯空了，就一定要加满。如果桌子脏了，就一定要弄干净。客人在店里尝了第一杯酒之后，我会询问他们酒好不好喝。他们离开的时候，我会与他们道别。

Giving your guests a different experience makes you stand out in the sea of bartenders with similar skills, techniques and knowledge. I achieve this by looking after my guests from the moment they step into my bar till the moment they leave. If there are more than three cigarette butts in the ashtray, I replace it. If the water glass is empty, I replenish it. If the table is untidy, I clean it up. After my guests try a drink, I ask them how they like it. And when they leave, I bid them goodbye.

我试图走进客人心里。如果客人是第一次到你店里，你要让他们觉得自在。之前我在麦坊工作，麦坊是以专业、传统知名的威士忌吧，因为这个，有些不太了解威士忌的新客人觉得有点压力。于是我会向他们介绍各种酒，并告诉他们威士忌的喝法，让他们放轻松。如果客人还没有吃完饭的话，我们还有芝士、火腿和意面供应。

It’s about appealing to the hearts of your guests. If they’re at your place for the first time, make them feel at home. At my previous bar Malt Fun, we had a reputation as a serious and traditional whisky bar, and guests who weren’t familiar with the spirit may have felt a bit of pressure. To help them relax, we found out their names and asked how they wanted their whisky: neat, on the rocks or with water. If they hadn’t had dinner yet, we offered cheese, ham, pasta.

好的服务最重要的一点是持之以恒。你不应该被自己的心情影响。如果你心情好的时候，服务做得很好，但心情差的时候，就什么都不做，这样是不行的。我们这一行，要懂得尊重，要尊重这个行业，尊重客人，尊重自己。

The key to good service is consistency. It should not be dictated by mood. If you serve guests well when you’re in a positive mood, but don’t make any effort when you’re feeling down, this is really bad. You’ve got to have respect, not only for your industry, but also for guests and for yourself.

我的服务理念是在UV餐厅形成的。UV是大厨Paul Pairet在上海开的餐厅。2012年5月4日，我作为第一批雇员加入餐厅。在UV我全身心投入只做好一件事——为客人提供最好的服务。我们共有25个人，服务10个客人。那段时间，每天从穿上制服起，就开始高强度的工作，虽然辛苦，但我很自豪。2013年，UV排名亚洲最佳餐厅第8位；2014年，排名第7；今年，排名第3。

My service philosophy was formed at Ultraviolet – UV – a restaurant in Shanghai created by chef Paul Pairet. It was 4 May 2012, and I was among the first hired to join the team. At UV, I devoted myself to only one thing: providing excellent service. There were 25 of us serving ten guests. It was a highly intense experience as soon as you put on your uniform, but I’m proud of this. In 2013, UV was ranked the eighth best Asian restaurant; in 2014, it ranked seventh; this year, it ranked third.

我离开UV后，去到杭州的Chill Lounge工作。杭州是座很美的城市，但是那里的酒吧文化还不是很成熟。人们总觉得酒吧应该是又吵又闹的，而严肃的鸡尾酒吧或威士忌吧似乎不太现实。我在那工作了8个月，也是担任店长。我曾尝试实践我的服务方式，严格要求手下的员工。我想如果他们照我的话去做，就可以进步很快。但他们不相信我的苦口婆心。他们觉得拿同样多的钱，却要做更多事情，不行；尽管我不过想通过教他们学习新技能，从而变得更专业罢了。当他们承担起更多责任后，工资自然会上去，我想让他们明白这点，但是我失败了。

When I left UV, I moved to Chill Lounge in Hangzhou. It’s a very beautiful city, but its bar culture is not developed yet. It’s quite rowdy and chaotic, and the reality of a serious cocktail or whisky bar is still quite far away. As the general manager there, for eight months, I tried to apply my service style, and was quite strict with my staff. I thought that by following my instructions, they would improve quickly. But they didn’t believe in my logic. They felt they shouldn’t have to put in extra work for the same pay, even if I was trying to help them grow professionally by giving them new skills. I tried to teach them that their salaries would increase as they added more responsibility, but I failed.

现在回到上海，我仍然是个严格的店长。我总是对员工强调，品质和服务是第一位的。如果这两个他们做不好，我会给他们警告，但只有两次机会，第三次我会觉得也许大家不适合在一起工作。必须要有原则。我刚从调酒师提升到店长位置上的时候，我经历了从“他们”中的一个突然变作监督、管理之前同级的“另一个”。我和很多同事都是好朋友，所以他们都不太把我的话当回事。那是一段尴尬的经历。但是我很感激那时候，因为它教会我很多，让我有机会进步。

Now, in Shanghai, I’m still quite rigid as a manager. I always insist my staff put quality and service first. If they can’t do both, I’ll warn them the first two times, and then decide if we can still work together on the third. You have to be firm. When I was first promoted from bartender to bar manager, I went from being one of “them” to someone who supervised and disciplined his former peers. I was a good friend to many of my colleagues, which was maybe why they didn’t take my orders seriously. It was embarrassing. But I’m grateful for that experience. It made me learn, sharpened my skills.

每当我光顾一家新酒吧，我首先会点大吉利，因为我能从这杯酒的平衡中品出调酒师的调酒特点。大吉利也是我最喜爱的鸡尾酒。一杯完美的大吉利，应该是青柠的清新和糖与朗姆酒的复杂的完美平衡，干摇之后，表面应该有一层薄薄的冰，入嘴即化。

When I visit a new bar, the first drink I always order, to judge a bartender’s skill in balancing a drink, is a Daiquiri. The perfect Daiquiri, which is also my favourite cocktail, balances the rum’s complexity with the sugar and freshness of the lime. The way I like it, after a hard shake, is to get a thin layer of ice floating on top, which melts as soon as it hits your mouth.

上海有很多顶级的酒吧，但是服务并没有都做得很好。这是态度问题。很多调酒师只关心鸡尾酒，要调出最好的味道。有些调酒师在拿了大奖之后就变了，他们渐渐不太关心做服务了。有些把调酒当作工作而不是事业在做，很频繁地换酒吧。另外，成功的标准并非仅仅来自工作，也来自顾客的满意度。

While Shanghai has many excellent bars, their service standards are generally still not that high. I think it’s an attitude issue. Many bartenders only focus on their drinks and getting the best taste. Others change after winning competitions; somehow, they start to ignore service. Or some just treat bartending as a job instead of a career, and constantly switch bars. But our measurement of success should not only come from our jobs, but from guest satisfaction.

阿特威士忌酒吧 Art and Whisky / 上海闵行区虹许路731号2号楼 /Building 2, 731 Hongxu Lu, Minghang district / 021 6128 0530