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[Scroll down for English version] 如果你恰巧正想入手一双得体的皮鞋，那么你算是来对地方了，因为我们今天就要讨论一下怎么挑选一双合适的入门皮鞋，根据每个人的购买需求不同，我们会从三个方面分析如何挑选合适的皮鞋，即为：制鞋工艺及材质，是否足够百搭和相应的性价比。 一 制鞋工艺与皮质 首先，知道一双鞋是如何制成的以及用料的质量是很重要的，因为这是影响其价格的直接因素（其品牌并不是）。第一种制作方式被称为“固特异缝制”，是我们要讲的三种制作工艺中种最古老的（挪威缝除外），最耗费劳动力和最结实的制作手段，固特异工艺可以用机器抑或手工完成，但是制鞋过程相对繁多。
第二种制法叫做内支线工艺 ：鞋身上部包裹住鞋垫并由从鞋子内侧的一道线固定上下鞋底。这种方式作为工业革命的产物，由于由机器完成在鞋子内部的固定线，所以较固特异简单许多，其价格也更具竞争力，如果你想要一双更轻盈的鞋，内支线工艺是一个很好的选择。这种工艺由于鞋底有更少的结构，所以弹性也更佳，但耐穿性较差，基本没有办法换底，也不具备防水功效。 最后一种方式是价格最优惠，耗时最短的为黏胶工艺，通常我们在市面上买到的运动鞋或低级正装鞋常采用这种方式。 皮革的质量也会直接影响到一双鞋的造价。好的皮质柔软度和舒适度都不错。在这里我们不论述皮质等级这一繁琐的分类，最简单的方式就是辨别一张皮革离脊柱的位置，脊柱附近的皮质是很不错的，通常非常紧致，距脊柱中心越远，皮的质感就越松懈，纹理更多。 图中左侧的鞋子使用脊柱中心皮子制成，右侧鞋子的皮则来自腹部区域 二 每位先生都适用的风格 如果你在需找一双正式的正装鞋，黑色的 Oxford cap－toe 则是很好的选择，你可以配上西装出入大部分正式场合，如婚礼或会议等。由于全黑的鞋子很难看出皮质的好坏，所以也可以选择入门级别的质量，这样也不必花费太多银子。 关于“棕色不得进城” 的规则如今已被人慢慢淡忘，所以棕色的皮鞋是个很好的选择，它并没有那么正式，所以为可以选择一双带有雕花的棕色牛津鞋，它同样适用于大多数正式场合。有一点值得注意的是，如果你想投资更多的钱买一双好鞋，那么就选棕色吧，因为棕色皮鞋更能清楚地反映一双鞋皮质的好坏。 还需注意的一点是牛津鞋比德比鞋更正式，区别就在于下图中可见牛津鞋有更封闭的结构而德比鞋更开阔 翻毛乐福鞋同样也是很好的选择，它既可以搭配西装，也可以和卡其裤，毛衣或夹克衫组合。翻毛皮较小牛皮鞋相比具有些许弹性，所以磨合期短，穿着更舒适。翻毛皮鞋表面具有肌理而不是光滑的表面，所以肉眼难以鉴定其皮质质量，所以也可以选择一双入门等级的翻毛皮鞋。信不信由你，翻毛皮鞋其实更好打理，因为你不用给它镜面抛光，用刷子刷刷即可。翻毛皮也不会像小牛皮一样容易留下水渍，所以在潮湿的天气可以选择穿着一双翻毛皮鞋外出。 三 根据预算来选择 1000元左右 Meermin 2000-3000元 Loake、Cheany、Tricker’s, Carlos Santos 3000-5000元 Carmina, Crocket & Jones, Vass, Alden, Allen Edmonds, George Cleverley 5000元以上 Edward Green, Gaziano & Girling, John Lobb, Stefano Bemer, Mario Bemer, J. M Weston, Corthay, Anthony Cleverley If you are searching for a decent dress shoe, there are some things to look for in order to assure you are getting a good pair of shoes that suit your needs. Everyone has different needs and requirements so we will break down into three parts: I. Shoe Construction & Leather, II. A couple Styles Every Gentleman Could Use, III; Suggested Brands and Budgets. I. Shoe Construction & Leather It is important to know how a shoe is made and what the quality of the leather is because it should have the biggest impact on price [not because of the brand name]. The first construction method we will discuss is called ‘Goodyear Welting.’ This is the oldest, most labor intensive, and most durable of the three construction methods we will discuss. It can be done by machine or by hand and involves many steps. The pros of this method are that the soles can be replaces easier and the shoe tends to be more durable and water wont be able to seep into the shoe since the stitching is done on the outside of the upper of the shoe. However, since Goodyear Welted shoes involve more steps to make, it tends to be the more expensive one. The second method is called the ‘Blake Stitch’ where the upper is wrapped around the insole and attached between it and the outsole with a single stitch on the inside of the shoe. The Blake Stitch is simple and quick to make than the previous Goodyear and its a by product of the industrial revolution because the stitching was done by machine on the inside of the shoe. Since the Blake Stitch is quicker and easier to make with machines, the price also tends to be more competitive. If you are looking for a close cut sole that is sleeker and slimmer, this will also be a good option. This stitch also tends to be more flexible since it has fewer layers. However, due to the fewer layers, it also wears out quicker. Since the stitching is also done on the inside of the shoe, water might seem into the shoe. The last construction method is cementing or glueing the sole to the upper. This method is the quickest and easiest way to make a shoe so usually has the most competitive price. It is often found on sports shoes and lower-grade dress shoes. Leather quality has another big impact on price.The better the quality of leather, the softer it will be making it easier to break in and more comfortable. Without going into too much detail in the different grades and sub-grades of leather hides, we can say that leather from the spine area is of better quality because it is tighter and the further away from the center-spine area you go, the looser, more wrinkly and veiny the leather gets. The shoe on the the left was made from the center spine area of a hide and the shoe on the right was made from the belly area of the hide.
II. Three Styles Every Gentleman Can Use If you are going for a pair of formal dress shoes, a great choice would be a black oxford cap-toe. This would be acceptable for most formal occasions where you need to wear a suit such as a wedding or important meeting. Since the quality of leather is less apparent to see on a black shoe, it is also a good opportunity to buy a shoe from an entry-level quality shoe brand so you don’t have to break the bank on your first pair of dress shoes.
There rules about “no brown in town” nowadays are less strict, so a brown leather shoe can be a very elegant choice. Since brown is thought to be less formal, why not go with an oxford with some brogue.These shoes will also be suitable for most formal occasions. If you want to spend a little more on your shoes, go for a brown since the quality (or lack of quality) is easier to see on brown than black calf skin shoes.
When buying a dress shoe, also note that an Oxford will be a more formal option than a Derby. The difference is an Oxford has a close stitch and a Derby will be open as illustrated here.
Suede loafers can also be a nice choice that you can dress up with a suit or dress down with a pair of chinos and a sweater or jacket. Suede also tends to stretch a bit more than a calf skin so they break in easier and might be more comfortable. Suede has a textured finish rather than a smooth finish so it is difficult to visually distinct the quality or grade, so you can also chose to buy a suede shoe from a quality entry-levelshoemaker. Believe it or not, suede can also be easier to take care of since you don’t need to perform a mirror shine on them and you can simply just brush them clean. They also won't get water spots as easily as a calf skin shoe so they can make a decent shoe for a wet day.
III. Suggested Brands to fit different budgets. Quality Shoe Brands: Around 1000 RMB: Meermin 2000-3000 RMB: Loake, Cheany, Tricker’s, Carlos Santos 3000-5000 RMB Carmina, Crocket & Jones, Vass, Alden, Allen Edmonds, George Cleverley 5000++ RMB Edward Green, Gaziano & Girling, John Lobb, Stefano Bemer, Mario Bemer, J. M Weston, Corthay, Anthony Cleverley |
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