|
Summary: Maasai Mara wildlife Reserve, being famous in the world for its wildlife and wildebeests immigration, is located in northwest part of Kenya Africa , which has 1800 Squ.K.mt and is less than 1/7 of whatever covering the Serengeti, Tanzania. Each year from the end of July to beginning of August, the famous immigration of several million wildebeests kicks off at Maasai Mara, Kenya, who will cross the Mara River from North bank to South bank, tracing the rain and fresh grass in Serengeti, Tanzania, which attracts the wildlife lovers, who might suffer the poor transportation, environment and poor board & lodging, dusty air on muddy or sand-rocky roads inside the Maasai Mara Reserve, of all over the world to flock into Kenya's Masai Mara for getting a glimpse of more than four million wildebeests, more than a thousand lions and lioness, cheetahs and leopards and all various African wild animals. The scenario of the most famous wildebeests’ crossing Mara River from Kenya side towards Tanzania by the end of July to beginning of August each year seems to be the biggest wildlife immigration on planet as far as the population and scale of wildlifes are concerned，which is so stunning that every people seems be deeply impressed. 乘多程国际航班、候机和转机辗转三十二小时后抵达简易如汽车站的肯尼亚首都内罗毕国际机场(Nairobi, Kenya)到达厅，疲惫不堪排两个小时队办落地签证，在内罗毕废气雾霾和坑坑洼洼沙尘滚滚通向马赛马拉保护区狭窄多尘土砂石国道及土路上颠簸六、七个小时才抵达三百公里外保护区露营地，途经无数四处透风的简破铁皮屋泥土路构成的村舍或小镇，泥土路上的沙尘暴未能阻隔那如黄土高坡缺水缺卫生的荒凉脏乱视野，小镇、村落或高墙铁丝网包围的露营地外到处是遗弃垃圾或牛羊排泄物，手拿鞭子身披马赛黑红两色格子披风的马赛牧牛羊人在黄尘土路边赶着牛羊群，马塞马拉野生动物保护区( Maasai Mara Reserve)内泥土路是晴天尘土飞扬雨天泥泞不堪蚊蝇漫天，早晚冷得要穿羽绒衣，中午热的如蒸桑拿浴，没有网络晚上七点天黑才有电，洗热水澡或喝热茶是奢侈企盼，每天清晨五六点出发去马赛马拉野生动物保护区狩猎，在颠簸多尘的泥砂路上志愿当“人工肺吸尘机”并接受狂颠汽车强加的“非洲按摩”，一切看似在经历二十一世纪黑非洲贫穷落后欠文明的历练折磨，但即便在如此艰苦恶劣环境条件下，世界各地的野生动物爱好者依然络绎不绝蜂拥而至马赛马拉，为的是一睹有四百多万头角马，一千多头狮子，猎豹和花豹和各种动物的有野生动物王国之称的肯尼亚马塞马拉保护区的野生动物群芳并亲眼观看被BBC炒红的举世闻名的“非洲角马大迁徙”。 位于非洲东部肯尼亚一千八百平方公里马赛马拉保护区(Maasai Mara Reserve)虽只有坦桑尼亚塞伦盖提草原(Serengeti, Tanzania)的七分之一大，但广袤无垠的丘陵草原遍布斑马角马彷如世外的动物世界，没有浓云阴天的马赛马拉每天都上演着旭日东升阳光普照的美景，远看如黑芝麻般密密麻麻几乎将山坡覆盖的有如天上白云多的成群斑马角马在悠闲低头吃草，跳羚或蹬羚身体的橙色皮毛在绿草中格外鲜艳醒目，浑身肌肉爆满的非洲野牛或河马是最容易发火攻击游客的动物，步履优雅形态美丽的长颈鹿、猎豹或花斑豹是游客挚爱，属于濒危动物的黑犀牛是“非洲五大”之一，固守领地巡逻的雄狮和捕猎母狮让人敬畏，浑身长着黑毛幼鬣狗怎么看不像成年鬣狗凶残，性情暴躁的河马在马拉河中会让渡河的角马以为是水中之王的鳄鱼而犹豫不决，几头母狮追逐角马情景让人明白猎杀并非想象中轻而易举不费吹灰之力，二三十只秃鹫在草原上空巡回飞翔寻找狮子猎豹的残羹剩饭，总爱翘着尾巴小跑的疣猪是猎豹和狮子的最爱，而这一切都不如现场观看似千军万马般气势宏伟的角马横渡马拉河精彩和激动人心。七月底至八月初在肯尼亚境内的素有“草原割草机”的角马开始了动物世界最大规模和数量的从肯尼亚马赛马拉往坦桑尼亚赛林盖提的越境迁徙。它们从北往南越过边境追随着降雨和新鲜生长的嫩草，数万头角马如同训练有素的军队一波接一波从陡峭的河岸上冲入鳄鱼河马游荡的如同黄河水浑浊的马拉河奔腾跳跃上河对岸开始它们的大迁徙，此时此刻角马的高声鸣叫和它们在河水中跳跃奔腾冲击河水的击水三千喧嚣声在一公里外都能听见，这就是BBC动物世界中拍摄的最震撼最激动人心的角马横渡马拉河纪录片中的经典一幕。原来以为从远山远行而来的角马会奋不顾身勇往直前冲入浑浊河中蹦跳到对岸，而亲眼所见事实并非如此。面对马拉河中鳄鱼和河马，在河岸边集结的数万头角马会因为视力极差分不出河马或鳄鱼，只要看到河水中有浮出水面的大眼睛就立马退缩回岸上。角马们就这样犹豫不决，在马拉河边来来回回上上下下彷徨磨蹭几个小时，有几次角马的前蹄都碰到河水了但看见河马影子它们又慌张地飞跑上河岸边，因为记忆告诉它们，谁先过河谁就会第一个被鳄鱼吃或被河马咬死而丢掉性命，尤其是年幼的河马更是犹豫不决。先期随其它角马过河的数匹幼年角马过河后找不到妈妈又重新回到马拉河南岸高声鸣叫呼喊在河北岸的母亲与亲戚，而河南岸的角马母亲及亲戚们似乎焦虑不安急切想渡河与亲友团聚，无奈只能用脚蹄猛蹭地面，因为渡河队伍最前面的角马群犹豫踌躇裹足不前。因为在一个角马南渡河口上水中有四头河马浮现河中，成千上万准备渡河角马最后在犹豫等待数小时后放弃渡河而飞奔去上游的五个最大渡河口中的一个渡河口。此时越聚越多的角马烦躁不安，它们在马拉河渡口岸边空地上来回徘徊磨蹭而扬起阵阵沙尘，最终几头壮角马率先冲入浑浊河水并奋力奔腾着跑向对岸，紧随其后是成千上万头角马轰轰烈烈地一波接一波冲向南岸，它们从北岸冲入河时脚踢扬起沙土遮天蔽地，而它们脚蹄撞击地面和岩石的声音，它们高声嘶鸣和在水中奔腾跳跃击水声震天动地，原来角马群横渡马拉河竟有如此势不可挡的磅礴气势，但浑浊马拉河上漂浮着被鳄鱼吃剩的斑马角马残尸似乎在向游人述说着它们大迁徙的代价。 虽上万头角马渡河只用不到半小时，但它们在马拉河北岸犹豫徘徊裹足不前的三、四个小时反映出来的动物贪生怕死本性似乎与人类无异。面对被鳄鱼无情吃掉或被河马追杀，角马群在马拉河边的三四个小时犹豫踌躇值得同情理解，因为生而惧怕死是人类及自然界动物与生俱来的本性，而最后结局是以少数角马的牺牲换来大多数角马的平安渡河大迁徙，物竞天择竟是如此美丽而凄惨。 ---------------------------------------------- 01 清晨时分的马赛马拉野生动物保护区彷如伊甸园(Maasai Mara in early morning before sunrise) 02 日出前的马赛马拉一片宁静祥和(peaceful and quiet morning at Maasai Mara Reserve, Kenya) 03 马赛马拉的日出，每天早上五点半出发天天看到日出(sunrise at the Maasai Mara Reserve, that we could see every morning)。 04 清晨吃草的斑马与小羚羊 （zibra and steenbox are eating grass in the early morning）
05 清晨在吃草的普通小羚羊(a common Duiker is eating grass in the morning)
06 清晨站在丘陵上的斑马，它们互相守望互保(Zebras are standing together and watching behind for each other as its defence position)。
07 非洲常见的长颈鹿(a group of Giraffes are easily spotted in Maasia Mara)
08 长颈鹿有力的长腿是对付狮子攻击的有力武器(the powerful legs of Giraffe are the strong weapon to fight against the lioness)。
09 在草原上漫步的转角羚（a Kudu is wondering in grassland）
10 斑马相互防卫的站立姿态（zebras are at their rest but their standing position show their defending each other by watching each other back side）
11 “非洲五霸”之一的非洲大象（Elephent is one of African Big five）
12 肯尼亚的国鸟--灰冠鹤（grey crowned crane is the state bird of Kenya）
13 专吃蛇蜥蜴的秘书鸟（the secretary bird is the killer of snake and lizard）
14 埃及鹅带着两只宝宝（Egyptian goose with chicks）
15 站在非洲野牛背上的“黄嘴啄虫椋鸟”（yellow-billed Oxpecker）
16 正在打架的非洲秃鹫（an African vulture is fighting with another one）
17 一对年轻姐妹母狮在寻找猎物（a pair of young lioness are looking for preys）
18 一头年轻母狮在追踪角马，单枪匹马单干是很难捕杀的。（a lonely lioness is running after a group of wildebeests, but it is impossible for her to make a kill）
19 一头健壮雄狮正在自己领地巡逻并留下自己的气味（a strong lion is patroling and marking his territory）。
20 一双年轻雌狮姐妹在寻找猎物 （a pair of young lioness are looking for preys）
21 雄狮正在巡视领地，它的工作是保护领地和与母狮做爱（a lion is patroling its territory）
22 一头壮年母狮在追寻猎物（a lioness is looking for preys）
23一头雄狮在保卫其领地（ a lion is watching at its territory）
24 一头母狮正在搜寻猎物 (a young lioness is searching for preys)。
25 一头母狮正在搜寻猎物 (a young lioness is searching for preys)。
26 雌狮血口大口的狰狞面目（a lioness is opening its bloody mouth terribly )
27 早上独行的猎豹走着优雅的“时装猫步” (a lonely cheetah is walking under early sunshine lik a fashion model)
28 在领地搜索猎物的身材俏丽的猎豹(a beautiful cheetah is looking around for preys)
29 在领地搜索猎物身材美丽的猎豹(a beautiful cheetah is looking around for preys) 30 半躺想象着的猎豹(a laying down cheetah in the morning)
31 傍晚时分站在树上的猎豹 (a cheetah is standing on branch of tree at dusk)
32 傍晚时分站在树上的猎豹(a cheetah is standing on branch of tree at dusk)
33 猎豹正在吃捕杀到的美味疣猪排骨(a cheetah is eating the body of waterhog that it killed early)
34 猎豹正在吃捕杀到的美味疣猪排骨(a cheetah is eating the body of waterhog that it killed early)
35 猎豹正在吃捕杀到的美味疣猪排骨(a cheetah is eating the body of waterhog that it killed early)
36 吃的肚子溜圆的猎豹半躺着休息，它们吃饱后要2-3天后才会再次捕杀猎物(after finishing its meal, a cheetah is laying down for rest, it would not hunt for 2-3 days)。
37 神出鬼没的花豹最难看到(it is hard to see a leopard who always hides deeply in bushes, trees or grassland)。
38 鬣狗妈妈和它的小崽(a spotted Hyaena with its cub)。
39 马拉河到处有准备吃大迁徙渡河的角马的尼罗鳄鱼(a crocodile is ready to kill any wildebeest crossing the Mara River for big migration)
40 在水中的河马凶狠无比，连鳄鱼也要让它三分(a group of Hippos are in Mara River, they may kill the wildebeest crossing the river)
41 在河岸边漫步的河马(a big Hippo is walking alongside of the river bank)
42 在丘陵山坡上边吃草边聚集的准备大迁徙的角马群(Preparing for migration, the wildebeest group gathered on the hillside)
43 渡河口山坡上聚集了成千上万头欲过马拉河的角马群(thousand of wildebeests are getting together at the crossing point of Mara River)
44 在渡河口犹豫彷徨的角马群(thousands of wildebeests are wandering around the river crossing point hesitatedly)
45 站在马拉河北岸准备渡河的角马群(a tribe of wildebeests are ready for crossing Mara River)
46 在马拉河渡口岸边空地上来回徘徊，又下又上犹豫不决的角马群，害怕被鳄鱼吃掉，害怕被河马咬死，贪生怕死不是人的专利,动物也是一样。(the wildebeests are getting down and up again and again for hours without determination)
47 已度过马拉河但站在南岸等待并呼叫北岸的亲戚或兄弟姐妹的角马群(at south bank of Mara River, a group of wildebeests are calling their friends or relatives to come and joint them)
48 最先渡河的壮年角马看到河中的鳄鱼后急忙退缩回河岸的瞬间，许多打头阵渡河的角马有被鳄鱼吃了或被河马咬伤咬死(seeing a crocodile in water, a wildebeest is running back to the north bank of Mara River)。
49 集体大渡河终于开始了，一批又一批的角马争先恐后从河北岸冲入河中，飞沙尘土滚滚(the mass action of crossing river finally start among the tribe of wildebeests)。
50 犹如千军万马的角马群渡河队伍势不可挡(Like thousands of army and military horses, the group of wildebeests crossing Mara river seems unstoppable).
51 犹如千军万马的角马群渡河队伍势不可挡(Like thousands of army and military horses, the group of wildebeests crossing Mara river seems unstoppable).
52 冲入河中的角马群高声嘶鸣和它们渡河冲击水声在一公里外都能听见(the sound of wildebeest beating the river water and their loudly shouting could be heard several miles away)
53 因为有鳄鱼和河马的威胁，每头角马都是跳跃渡河的(every wildebeest is jumping over the water to avoid being attacked by crocodile or Hippos in the river)。
54 角马到达南岸后奋力跳跃上岩石坡(it is leaping up to the slop of the river bank)。
55 角马群到达南岸后急速爬上河岸的情景(a tribe of wildebeests on arrival of south bank of Mara River)。
56 角马群到达南岸后急速爬上河岸的情景(a tribe of wildebeest on arrival of south bank of Mara River)。
57 角马群到达南岸后急速爬上河岸的情景(a tribe of wildebeest on arrival of south bank of Mara River)。
58 角马群渡河后与先前到达的角马家族兄弟姐妹汇合，之后它们将前往坦桑尼亚的塞伦盖提草原(a tribe of wildebeests has reunioned with their friends who came early to the south bank of river, they will soon head to Serengeti, Tanzania)。
59 角马群渡河后与先前到达的角马家族兄弟姐妹汇合，之后它们将前往坦桑尼亚的塞伦盖提草原，完成本次越界迁徙(a tribe of wildebeest has reunioned with their friends who came early to the south bank of river, they will soon head to Serengeti, Tanzania,the big migration will then end)。
60 肯尼亚马赛马拉缩影（miniature of Maasai Mara Reserve, Kenya）
拍摄经验分享： 摄影器材：两部尼康D850和D810相机，尼康24-120毫米镜头；尼康300-500毫米长焦镜（两机配两镜，马赛马拉尘土超大，避免野外换镜头）。 拍摄参数：M档，光圈 F8；快门S 1 / 1250；ISO 自动（ISO限制最高600）；白平衡：自动；测光方式：中心重点测光, 对焦：点对焦，相机优化调整：人像；用Fn-On背按钮锁定对焦后用CH连拍方式拍摄。拍摄后注意现场查看相机背后的“直方图”，对于尼康相机宁而言，宁欠勿曝和向左曝光。用RAW格式储存拍摄的文件。白天拍摄野生动物在显示屏上不易看出曝光正确程度，故须查看“直方图”，看看像数有否过溢出右方（过曝）而调整加减EV值。 拍摄经验：肯尼亚马赛马拉沙土粉尘特多，故最好带两机配长短两个镜头而避免在野外更换镜头。在敞篷的越野车上无法使用三脚架或独脚架长焦镜头,用豆袋支撑或手托拍摄。用600定焦镜头手持拍摄过于沉重，建议用轻便的长焦变焦镜头（除非自己单独包车用脚架），200-500或150-600长焦变焦镜头是不错的选择。开机拍摄前记得用“气吹”将镜头和遮光罩吹干净,狩猎过程食无定时，最好自带干粮充饥。必须自带几只厚棉口罩挡灰滤尘（普通医用口罩太薄）。 作者声明：作者原创短文,全部照片由作者拍摄非洲肯尼亚的马赛马拉野生动物保护区。欢迎收藏，转发和评论留言,但是谢绝“洗稿”或抄袭盗用到其它公众号上。阅后满意请点赞，你的鼓励是对作者原创的最大支持。 |
|
|
