土耳其的科尼亚看点（庄婷）

​科尼亚，土耳其城市，安纳托利亚高原中南部农业区的主要中心，科尼亚省省会。历史上，曾经是拜占廷帝国和奥斯曼帝国时期的军事重镇，从1076年至1277年是土耳其人建立的罗姆苏丹国的首都。弗里吉亚人(Phrygians)在公元前八世纪建立的王国曾统治这里。后来此地属于波斯帝国，直到大流士三世在前333年被亚历山大一世击溃。再后来这里并入罗马。1084年城市被塞尔柱突厥人征服。

伊斯兰教苦修僧教派创始人贾拉尔·丁·鲁米的陵墓，是朝圣地与旅游中心。特别令科尼亚人民感到自豪的是科尼亚曾是塔吉克族著名思想家、哲学家迈乌·拉纳的诞生地。丰富的文化传统和悠久的历史使科尼亚享誉着“天然历史艺术博物馆”的美名。土耳其著名的塞尔柱大学也在该市。

托钵僧舞蹈 （Mevlevi）或称圈舞（Sema）是苏菲派的苦行修士会于1273年在科尼亚由神学诗人鲁米创立，并从那里传遍奥斯曼帝国。原为一种宗教的礼仪，现在则完全演变成为一种艺术表演形式。看表演者不停地长时间旋转的表演会使人目瞪口呆。今天，全世界许多土耳其社区仍有苏菲派苦行修士，其中最为活跃和著名的地方仍是科尼亚和伊斯坦布尔。Sema被列为世界非物质文化遗产

在舞蹈仪式上，每次都要演奏“阿音”，音乐包括四个部分，器乐部分是对比的节奏型，至少由一名歌手、一名长笛演奏者、一名定音鼓鼓手和一名铙钹手来表演。最早的音乐作品发源于十六世纪中期，结合了波斯和土耳其音乐的传统。

舞蹈者将在一处修道院中接受1001天的隐居式的训练，在那里通过祈祷、宗教音乐、诗歌和舞蹈，学习伦理观、行为准则和信仰。在数小时的禁食后，旋转者开始以左脚为支撑，用右脚作为动力腿做短暂的旋转。旋转者的身体应该是柔顺的，眼睛睁开但不能聚焦，以免视线模糊、流动。

Introducing destination Konya, a city in Central Anatolia in Turkey, known as the city of whirling dervishes and for its outstanding historical Seljuk architecture, as well as its modern importance as an economic boom town.

Konya was once the capital of Sultanate of Rum, known in Turkish as Anadolu Selçukluları, a situation which resulted in much of the architectural heritage visible today. The Persian poet and Sufi thinker "Mevlana" or Rumi also settled in the city during this period. Konya still retains the air of an Anatolian provincial town and does not suffer the hassles of Istanbul. Konya is also one of the most conservative cities in Turkey with more women covering their heads with headscarves.

Main attractions:

1. Mevlana Museum/Mausoleum of Rumi (Mevlana Müzesi). This must-see tourist destination of Konya is the tomb of the famous mystic/sufi/thinker Rumi (also known as as Mevlana in Turkish.

2. Sema (Whirling dervish ceremony)

The Mevlevi (followers of Mevlâna Rumî), or Whirling Dervishes are listed as the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO. 

Their spellbinding worship service, the Mevlevi sema, has dervishes in long white dresses whirling ecstatically for a quarter hour at a time to the drone of ancient Islamic hymns. The sema (seh-MAH) is derived from Rumî‘s habit of occasionally whirling in ecstatic joy in the streets of Konya, capital of the Seljuk Turkish Sultanate of Rum, and his home for the greater part of his life. After the death of Rumî in 1273, the Mevlevi order spread throughout the Seljuk and Ottoman empires.

Following a recommended fast of several hours, the whirlers begin to rotate on their left feet in short twists, using the right foot to drive their bodies around the left foot. The body of the whirler is meant to be supple, with eyes open but unfocused so that images become blurred and flowing. At their dancing ceremonies, or Sema, a particular musical repertoire called ay›n is played. Based on four sections of both vocal and instrumental compositions, it is performed by at least one singer, a flute-player, called neyzen, a kettledrummer and a cymbal player. Dancers used to receive 1,001 days of reclusive training within the mevlevi-houses (mevlevihane), where they learned about ethics, codes of behaviour and beliefs by practising prayer, religious music, poetry and dance. After this training, they remained members of the order but returned to their work and families.