Some might say Perth’s a late bloomer; others may suggest that she’s simply been biding her time. For locals, the secret is most definitely out. Direct flights to Perth from London have thrown quite the spotlight on the Western capital, revealing a metropolis that basks in more sunlight hours than any other major Australian city, has the beaches to match, and is no slouch after dark. What’s more, Perth has its own island playground 12 miles (19km) off the coast, it lays claim to one of the largest inner-city parks in the world and is ringed with wineries. Perth’s new affordability also adds to the allure: a flood of hotel and restaurant openings has driven prices down to the most competitive they’ve ever been. Liveability has been simultaneously amped. The swish Elizabeth Quay waterfront provides a revitalised platform to the Swan River, while Yagan Square joins the inner city’s ying and yang sides the for the first time in a century: hello free-flowing foot traffic. Another big ticket arrival, the $400M (£227M) Western Australian museum, Boola Bardip opened late 2020, completing the bustling Perth Cultural Centre. Explore our interactive map below for all the local highlights, and scroll down for our suggested day-by-day summary of the best things to see and do. For further Perth inspiration, see our guides to the city's best hotels, restaurants, nightlife, beaches and things to do. Day oneMorning
Walk for about 40 minutes or take a taxi to Elizabeth Quay, the waterfront development perched on the Swan River. From here, take a one-way Captain Cook Cruise to Fremantle. Make sure you sit on the right hand side of the boat so you can take in the city skyline, followed by the mansions lining the waterway. Australia’s richest woman lives here, and the cruise commentator will point her abode out. If you’re lucky, you may also spot dolphins in the water. Afternoon
Arrange a walking tour of Freo, as it’s affectionately called, with Two Feet and a Heartbeat. The Convicts, Culture & Street Art tour will get you up to speed on the harbour area’s early days, and includes a look at Fremantle’s Unesco World Heritage-listed prison. When the tour is over, ask your guide to point you in the direction of the Bon Scott statue, at the Fisherman’s Wharf. The late AC/DC frontman grew up in Freo and is buried in its cemetery. Afterwards, skip across the road to Little Creatures Brewery for a Rogers Amber Ale, best enjoyed out the back where you can watch working vessels and leisure craft bobbing in the harbour. Late
When you've finished, walk for about two minutes to the Fremantle train station and take it all the way back to central Perth. If you’re still keen for more, pop in to Varnish on King, an excellent speakeasy-style whiskey bar that gets better as the night gets long. For more suggestions of the best nightlife in the city, see our guide. Day twoMorning
Belly full, you can either retrace your steps, then take a free public bus from Elizabeth Quay bus station to Kings Park, or simply take a 10-minute taxi ride to Perth’s vast bushland. Try and join a free walking tour (departures at 10am, 12 noon and 2pm) or simply roam through the Botanic Garden, pausing at the 750-year-old boab and crossing the tree canopy bridge. If you’re in town in September, you’ll find the park splashed with masses of colourful, native wildflowers – a month-long festival offers extra guided walks, as well as open-air exhibitions, live music, wellness pursuits and more – it’ll keep you captivated for hours. Afternoon
There are a couple of pod cafés within the pedestrian centre; either grab a quick bite there or walk through to William Street in Northbridge, turn left and sit down at Bivouac Canteen & Bar for some excellent Middle Eastern-inspired fare. Roam along William Street, keeping an eye out for edgy street art between the small boutiques holding local fashion, quirky gifts, books and more. Late
On the rooftop of COMO the Treasury, Wildflower is Perth’s best and priciest fine diner, specialising in native flavours and sharp technique, while on the ground floor, Petition Kitchen has a sassy, modern, great-value line-up and in the basement, Long Chim fires up the tastebuds with unblinkingly authentic (and moderately expensive) Thai cuisine. For more suggestions of the best restaurants in the city, see our guide. End the night with a door knock on Sneaky Tony's unmarked iron gateway (38 Roe St). On Friday and Saturday nights, you’ll need to grab a password from their Facebook page, and the doorman will eye you through a medieval peep hole before granting you entry. Slick cocktails and towering candles await. Where to stayLuxury Living
Doubles from AUD $895 (£508) including breakfast Designer Digs
Doubles from AUD $310 (£176) Budget Bolthole
Doubles from AUD $169 (£96) Insider tipsNeighbourhood watch
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What to take home
Your walls will treasure a genuine piece of Aboriginal art created in Western Australia, especially when you can be sure the proceeds go back to the artist and their community. Find a reputable, certified dealer such as Japingka Aboriginal Art in Fremantle and do your homework before purchasing. When to go
Summer: a certain fervour strikes as December 1 approaches. West Australians live for summer: it spells lazy days at the beach, balmy nights, cold beers, holidays and Christmas. It’s also when a whirlwind of festivals tear through town, with the quirky Fringe World colouring Perth in January, and the Perth International Arts Festival keeping the party going in February and March. Weekends allow escapes to Margaret River and Sunday afternoons are traditionally spent at the pub. Sure, it gets hot – temperatures can rise to 40°C and sunburn is an ever-present risk – but the mood is joyful. Head south to escape the worst of the heat. Autumn: March through May is a magical time in Perth. While the summer party is over and work has resumed its regular hum, the weather is still gorgeous enough for beach-going, yet the crowds have departed the holiday hotspots of Margaret River and Denmark. That said, Cottesloe’s Sculpture by the Sea exhibition packs out the beach in March. From April, temperatures become more pleasant as you head to northern parts of the state, such as Pinnacles Desert and Exmouth, where whale sharks visit until July. Winter: the atmosphere in Perth can slump in the colder months – locals panic when the mercury dips below 22°C and tend to hibernate (it can drop to 0°C overnight). Like migrating birds, many people flock north to blue skies and warm climes. You should do the same: it's the best time to explore the miraculous Kimberley region, land of billions of years old rock formations, waterfalls and Aboriginal rock art. Spring: come September, thousands of wildflower species bloom across the state, a perfect time for road trips and hikes. The valid 'cheats option' is the Wildflower Festival in Kings Park, which showcases WA’s floral diversity. Whale migration also draws visitors back to the cool south, and by November, when the Margaret River Gourmet Escape festival is held, days are warm again. Need to know
Tourist information: The Western Australian Visitor Centre is at 55 William Street, Perth (wavisitorcentre.com). For more information, see: Currency: Australian dollar. Prices are rounded off to the nearest 5c (1c and 2c coins are not used in Australia). ATMs are commonplace and accept Cirrus, Plus, Visa, and MasterCard. Money exchange booths with competitive rates can be found in Perth’s two city malls, in London Court and on St Georges Terrace Time: +8 hours Travel times: flying time from London to Perth is around 17 hours. Flying time from Sydney to Perth is around 4 hours Tipping: not necessary, but always appreciated. Locals tend to reward good service by rounding up the bill – be it at a restaurant or in a cab – to the nearest A$5 or A$10 mark Getting around: Uber is available in Perth. There is also free public transport (see the insider tip above) Local laws and etiquette
When you’re heading out bush, be sure to tell someone where you’re going and bring plenty of water, food and spare fuel. At dawn and dusk, keep a lookout for wildlife crossing the road. If you’re travelling through remote parts or during the north’s wet season, check route conditions with the Department of Main Roads (00 61 138 138). In the north, crocodiles are a very real threat: always obey warning signs and check with locals before swimming. Author bio
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