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Yue Embroidery
2020-12-15 | 阅:  转:  |  分享 
  
AlsocalledGuangembroidery,Yueembroideryisageneralnameforemb
roideryproductsoftheregionsofGuangzhou,Shantou,Zhongshan,
FanyuandShundeinGuangdongProvince.Accordingtohistorical
records,inthefirstyearofYongyuan''sreign(805)duringtheT
angDynasty(618-907),agirlnamedLuMeiniangembroideredthes
eventhvolumeoftheFahuaBuddhistScriptureonapieceofthin
silk30cmlong.Andso,Yueembroiderybecamefamousaroundthe
country.TheprosperousGuangzhouPortoftheSongDynastypromote
dthedevelopmentofYueembroidery,whichbegantobeexporteda
tthattime.DuringtheQingDynasty,peopleanimalhairasther
awmaterialforYueembroidery,whichmadetheworksmorevivid.
DuringQianlong''sreign(1736-1796)oftheQing,anindustrialor
ganizationwasestablishedinGuangzhou.Atthattime,alargenu
mberofcraftsmendevotedthemselvestothecraft,incitingfurth
erimprovementstotheweavingtechnique.Since1915,theworkof
YueembroiderygarneredseveralawardsatthePanamaExpo.Influe
ncedbynationalfolkart,Yueembroideryformeditsownuniquec
haracteristics.Theembroideredpicturesaremainlyofdragonsan
dphoenixes,andflowersandbirds,withneatdesignsandstrong,
contrastingcolors.Floss,threadandgold-and-silkthreadembro
ideryareusedtoproducecostumes,decorationsforhallsandcra
ftsfordailyuse.EmbroideryinChinaEmbroideryisabrilliantpe
arlinChineseart.FromthemagnificentDragonRobewornbyEmpe
rorstothepopularembroideryseenintoday''sfashions,embroide
ryaddssomuchpleasuretoourlifeandourculture.Asafolkar
twithalongtradition,Embroideryoccupiesanimportantpositio
ninthehistoryofChineseartsandcrafts.Itis,initslongd
evelopment,inseparablefromsilkworm-raisingandsilk-reelingan
dweaving.Chinaisthefirstcountryintheworldthatdiscovered
theuseofsilk.Silkwormsweredomesticatedasearlyas5000ye
arsago.Theproductionofsilkthreadandfabricsgaverisetot
heartofembroidery.AccordingtotheclassicalShangshu(orBoo
kofHistory),the"regulationsoncostumes"of4000yearsagost
ipulatedamongotherthings"dressesandskirtswithdesignsand
embroideries".Thisisevidencethatembroideryhadbecomeanest
ablishedartbythatremotetime.Theoldestembroideredproducti
nChinaonrecorddatesfromtheShangDynasty(1600-1046BC).Em
broideryinthisperiodsymbolizedsocialstatus.Itwasnotunti
llateron,asthenationaleconomydeveloped,thatembroideryen
teredthelivesofthecommonpeople.ThroughprogressoverZhouD
ynasty(1046-221BC),theHanDynasty(206BC-AD220)witnessedale
apinembroideryinbothtechniqueandartstyle.Courtembroider
ywassetandspecializationcameintobeing.Thepatternsofemb
roiderycoveredalargerrange,fromsun,moon,stars,mountains,
dragons,andphoenixtotiger,flowerandgrass,cloudsandgeom
etricpatterns.Auspiciouswordswerealsofashionable.Bothhist
oricrecordsandproductsofthetimeprovedthis.Accordingtoth
erecords,allthewomeninthecapitalofQi(today''sLinzi,Sha
ndong)wereabletoembroider,eventhestupidwereadeptatit!
Theysawandpracticediteverydaysonaturallytheybecamegood
atit.Theroyalfamilyandaristocratshadeverythingcoveredwi
thembroidery-eventheirroomsweredecoratedwithsomuchembroi
derythatthewallscouldnotbeseen!Embroideryfloodedtheirh
omes,frommattressestobeddings,fromclothesworninlifetime
toburialarticles.TheauthenticembroideriesfoundinMawangdui
HanTombarebestevidenceofthisunprecedentedproliferationo
fembroidery.Meanwhile,unearthedembroideriesfromMogaoCaves
inDunhuang,theAstana-KarakhojaAncientTombsinTurpanandnor
thernInnerMongoliafurtherstrengthenthisobservation.Duringt
hefollowingThreeKingdomsPeriod(220-280),onenotablefigure
inthedevelopmentofembroiderywasthewifeofSunQuan,Kingo
fWu.ShewasalsothefirstfemalepainterrecordedinChinesep
aintinghistory.Shewasgoodatcalligraphy,paintingandembroi
dery.SunQuanwantedamapofChinaandshedrewoneforhimand
evenpresentedhimembroideredmapofChina.Shewasreputedas
theMasterofWeaving,NeedleandSilk.Portraitsalsoappearedo
nembroideryduringthistime.AsBuddhismboomedinChinaduring
theWei,Jin,SuiandTangDynasties(from220-907),embroideryw
aswidelyusedtoshowhonortoBuddhastatues.LuMeiniang,aco
urtmaidenintheTangDynasty(618-907),embroideredsevenchapt
ersofBuddhistsutraonatinypieceofsilk!Newskillinstitc
hingemergedduringthisperiod.BesidesBuddhistfigures,thesub
jectsofChinesepaintingsuchasmountains,waters,flowers,bir
ds,pavilionsandpeopleallbecamethemesofembroidery,making
itintoauniqueart.TheSongDynasty(960-1279)sawapeakofde
velopmentofembroideryinbothquantityandquality.Embroidery
developedintoanartbycombiningcalligraphyandpainting.New
toolsandskillswereinvented.TheWenxiuDepartmentwasinchar
geofembroideryintheSongcourt.DuringthereignofEmperorH
uiZong,theydividedembroideryintofourcategories:mountains
andwaters,pavilions,people,andflowerandbirds.Duringthis
period,theartofembroiderycametoitszenithandreputedwork
erspoppedup.Evenintellectsjoinedthisactivity,andembroide
rywasdividedintotwofunctions:artfordailyuseandartfor
art''ssake.Thereligioustouchofembroiderywasstrengthenedby
therulersofYuanDynasty(1271-1368)whobelievedinLamaism.E
mbroiderywasmuchmoreappliedinBuddhastatues,sutrasandpra
yerflags.OneproductofthistimeiskeptinPotalaPalace.Ast
hesproutofcapitalismemergedinMingDynasty(1368-1644),Chin
esesocietysawasubstantialflourishinmanyindustries.Embroi
deryshowednewfeatures,too.Traditionalauspiciouspatternswe
rewidelyusedtosymbolizepopularthemes:Mandarinducksforlo
ve;pomegranatesforfertility;pines,bamboosandplumsforinte
grity;peoniesforrichesandhonor;andcranesforlongevity.Th
efamousGuEmbroideryistypicalofthistime.TheQingDynasty(
1644-1911)inheritedthefeaturesoftheMingDynastyandabsorbe
dnewingredientsfromJapaneseembroideryandevenWesternart.
Newmaterialssuchasgildedcobberandsilverythreadsemerged.
AccordingtoTheDreamoftheRedChamber,apopularChinesenove
lsetduringtheQingDynasty,peacockfeatherswerealsoused.Today,silkembroideryispracticednearlyalloverChina.TheFourFamousEmbroideriesofChinarefertotheXiangembroideryincentralChina''sHunanProvince,ShuembroideryinwesternChina''sSichuanProvince,YueembroideryinsouthernChina''sGuangdongProvinceandSuembroideryineasternChina''sJiangsuProvince.原网址:http://www.chinadaily.com.cn/regional/2018-12/18/content_37450984_2.htm
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