AlsocalledGuangembroidery,Yueembroideryisageneralnameforemb roideryproductsoftheregionsofGuangzhou,Shantou,Zhongshan, FanyuandShundeinGuangdongProvince.Accordingtohistorical records,inthefirstyearofYongyuan''sreign(805)duringtheT angDynasty(618-907),agirlnamedLuMeiniangembroideredthes eventhvolumeoftheFahuaBuddhistScriptureonapieceofthin silk30cmlong.Andso,Yueembroiderybecamefamousaroundthe country.TheprosperousGuangzhouPortoftheSongDynastypromote dthedevelopmentofYueembroidery,whichbegantobeexporteda tthattime.DuringtheQingDynasty,peopleanimalhairasther awmaterialforYueembroidery,whichmadetheworksmorevivid. DuringQianlong''sreign(1736-1796)oftheQing,anindustrialor ganizationwasestablishedinGuangzhou.Atthattime,alargenu mberofcraftsmendevotedthemselvestothecraft,incitingfurth erimprovementstotheweavingtechnique.Since1915,theworkof YueembroiderygarneredseveralawardsatthePanamaExpo.Influe ncedbynationalfolkart,Yueembroideryformeditsownuniquec haracteristics.Theembroideredpicturesaremainlyofdragonsan dphoenixes,andflowersandbirds,withneatdesignsandstrong, contrastingcolors.Floss,threadandgold-and-silkthreadembro ideryareusedtoproducecostumes,decorationsforhallsandcra ftsfordailyuse.EmbroideryinChinaEmbroideryisabrilliantpe arlinChineseart.FromthemagnificentDragonRobewornbyEmpe rorstothepopularembroideryseenintoday''sfashions,embroide ryaddssomuchpleasuretoourlifeandourculture.Asafolkar twithalongtradition,Embroideryoccupiesanimportantpositio ninthehistoryofChineseartsandcrafts.Itis,initslongd evelopment,inseparablefromsilkworm-raisingandsilk-reelingan dweaving.Chinaisthefirstcountryintheworldthatdiscovered theuseofsilk.Silkwormsweredomesticatedasearlyas5000ye arsago.Theproductionofsilkthreadandfabricsgaverisetot heartofembroidery.AccordingtotheclassicalShangshu(orBoo kofHistory),the"regulationsoncostumes"of4000yearsagost ipulatedamongotherthings"dressesandskirtswithdesignsand embroideries".Thisisevidencethatembroideryhadbecomeanest ablishedartbythatremotetime.Theoldestembroideredproducti nChinaonrecorddatesfromtheShangDynasty(1600-1046BC).Em broideryinthisperiodsymbolizedsocialstatus.Itwasnotunti llateron,asthenationaleconomydeveloped,thatembroideryen teredthelivesofthecommonpeople.ThroughprogressoverZhouD ynasty(1046-221BC),theHanDynasty(206BC-AD220)witnessedale apinembroideryinbothtechniqueandartstyle.Courtembroider ywassetandspecializationcameintobeing.Thepatternsofemb roiderycoveredalargerrange,fromsun,moon,stars,mountains, dragons,andphoenixtotiger,flowerandgrass,cloudsandgeom etricpatterns.Auspiciouswordswerealsofashionable.Bothhist oricrecordsandproductsofthetimeprovedthis.Accordingtoth erecords,allthewomeninthecapitalofQi(today''sLinzi,Sha ndong)wereabletoembroider,eventhestupidwereadeptatit! Theysawandpracticediteverydaysonaturallytheybecamegood atit.Theroyalfamilyandaristocratshadeverythingcoveredwi thembroidery-eventheirroomsweredecoratedwithsomuchembroi derythatthewallscouldnotbeseen!Embroideryfloodedtheirh omes,frommattressestobeddings,fromclothesworninlifetime toburialarticles.TheauthenticembroideriesfoundinMawangdui HanTombarebestevidenceofthisunprecedentedproliferationo fembroidery.Meanwhile,unearthedembroideriesfromMogaoCaves inDunhuang,theAstana-KarakhojaAncientTombsinTurpanandnor thernInnerMongoliafurtherstrengthenthisobservation.Duringt hefollowingThreeKingdomsPeriod(220-280),onenotablefigure inthedevelopmentofembroiderywasthewifeofSunQuan,Kingo fWu.ShewasalsothefirstfemalepainterrecordedinChinesep aintinghistory.Shewasgoodatcalligraphy,paintingandembroi dery.SunQuanwantedamapofChinaandshedrewoneforhimand evenpresentedhimembroideredmapofChina.Shewasreputedas theMasterofWeaving,NeedleandSilk.Portraitsalsoappearedo nembroideryduringthistime.AsBuddhismboomedinChinaduring theWei,Jin,SuiandTangDynasties(from220-907),embroideryw aswidelyusedtoshowhonortoBuddhastatues.LuMeiniang,aco urtmaidenintheTangDynasty(618-907),embroideredsevenchapt ersofBuddhistsutraonatinypieceofsilk!Newskillinstitc hingemergedduringthisperiod.BesidesBuddhistfigures,thesub jectsofChinesepaintingsuchasmountains,waters,flowers,bir ds,pavilionsandpeopleallbecamethemesofembroidery,making itintoauniqueart.TheSongDynasty(960-1279)sawapeakofde velopmentofembroideryinbothquantityandquality.Embroidery developedintoanartbycombiningcalligraphyandpainting.New toolsandskillswereinvented.TheWenxiuDepartmentwasinchar geofembroideryintheSongcourt.DuringthereignofEmperorH uiZong,theydividedembroideryintofourcategories:mountains andwaters,pavilions,people,andflowerandbirds.Duringthis period,theartofembroiderycametoitszenithandreputedwork erspoppedup.Evenintellectsjoinedthisactivity,andembroide rywasdividedintotwofunctions:artfordailyuseandartfor art''ssake.Thereligioustouchofembroiderywasstrengthenedby therulersofYuanDynasty(1271-1368)whobelievedinLamaism.E mbroiderywasmuchmoreappliedinBuddhastatues,sutrasandpra yerflags.OneproductofthistimeiskeptinPotalaPalace.Ast hesproutofcapitalismemergedinMingDynasty(1368-1644),Chin esesocietysawasubstantialflourishinmanyindustries.Embroi deryshowednewfeatures,too.Traditionalauspiciouspatternswe rewidelyusedtosymbolizepopularthemes:Mandarinducksforlo ve;pomegranatesforfertility;pines,bamboosandplumsforinte grity;peoniesforrichesandhonor;andcranesforlongevity.Th efamousGuEmbroideryistypicalofthistime.TheQingDynasty( 1644-1911)inheritedthefeaturesoftheMingDynastyandabsorbe dnewingredientsfromJapaneseembroideryandevenWesternart. Newmaterialssuchasgildedcobberandsilverythreadsemerged. AccordingtoTheDreamoftheRedChamber,apopularChinesenove lsetduringtheQingDynasty,peacockfeatherswerealsoused.Today,silkembroideryispracticednearlyalloverChina.TheFourFamousEmbroideriesofChinarefertotheXiangembroideryincentralChina''sHunanProvince,ShuembroideryinwesternChina''sSichuanProvince,YueembroideryinsouthernChina''sGuangdongProvinceandSuembroideryineasternChina''sJiangsuProvince.原网址:http://www.chinadaily.com.cn/regional/2018-12/18/content_37450984_2.htm |
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