酿酒工作将交给埃里克·鲁索管理，他将租下土地、打理葡萄园，同时把三分之一的产量交给吴志诚。预计这个葡萄园一年的产量在一万瓶到1.2万瓶之间。
图
为吉夫瑞·香白丹(Chateau de
Gevrey-Chambertin)酒庄外景。据吉夫瑞·香白丹酿酒商联合会主席让-米切尔·吉永(Jean-Michel
Guillon)说，这座建于12世纪的酒庄于今年早些时候以出人意料的800万欧元卖给了来自澳门的博彩业大亨。
在法国爆发不满以来他首次接受媒体采访时，吴志诚表示收购这个葡萄园是一笔充满情感的投资。吴志诚在富豪何鸿燊创办的酒店与赌场运营商澳门博彩控股有限公司(SJM Holdings Ltd.)担任营运总裁。图为吉夫瑞·香白丹酒庄内景。
吴志诚在一份声明中说，该酒庄的翻修工作将由备受尊敬的法国建筑师拉波特(Christian Laporte)操刀。拉波特尤为擅长修复历史建筑，与此同时，所有翻修方案都将经过该地区专于保护项目的公司批准。
卖方的律师、波尔多顶级酿酒师埃里克·鲁索(Eric Rousseau)和吴志诚在Chez Guy餐厅。吴志诚在早些时候的声明中说：“我极其高兴能请来埃里克，希望他的精湛的技艺和专长能让这个酒庄重新生产出勃艮第最好的葡萄酒。”
图为酿酒师埃里克·鲁索（左）、吉夫瑞·香白丹市长罗伯特(Jean-Claude Robert)和吴志诚合影。吴志诚对葡萄酒的满腔热情促使他与波尔多、勃艮第以及罗讷河谷的许多顶级酿酒师，还有各地声名卓越的葡萄酒批发商及拍卖行建立了紧密而持久的关系。
这座吉夫瑞·香白丹城堡位于法国东部，带有2.3公顷的葡萄园。
酿酒工作将交给埃里克·鲁索管理，他将租下土地、打理葡萄园，同时把三分之一的产量交给吴志诚。预计这个葡萄园一年的产量在一万瓶到1.2万瓶之间。
 |
图
为吉夫瑞·香白丹(Chateau de
Gevrey-Chambertin)酒庄外景。据吉夫瑞·香白丹酿酒商联合会主席让-米切尔·吉永(Jean-Michel
Guillon)说，这座建于12世纪的酒庄于今年早些时候以出人意料的800万欧元卖给了来自澳门的博彩业大亨。
澳
门博彩业经理人吴志诚(Louis Ng)在勃艮第收购了一个葡萄园之后，在法国引起了强烈反弹。他表示这种反应出乎意料，承诺至少投资800万欧元（1,000万美元）来恢复这块产业往日的辉煌。
吴志诚表示他决心安抚自己的新邻居。他在法国上周爆发不满以来首次接受媒体采访，表示收购这个葡萄园是一笔充满情感的投资。吴志诚在富豪何鸿燊(Stanley Ho)创办的酒店与赌场运营商澳门博彩控股有限公司(SJM Holdings Ltd.)担任营运总裁。
Jeff Pachoud/Agence France-Presse
图片：澳门大亨入主法国酒堡
今
年5月，六位香港投资人组团，以800万欧元的价格买下建于12世纪的破败酒庄吉夫瑞?香白丹(Chateau de
Gevrey-Chambertin)及2.3公顷的葡萄园。60岁的吴志诚是这个团队的牵头人和最大股东。他持有澳博控股2.3%的股份，价值2.63
亿美元。作为亚洲地区葡萄酒爱好者当中的一位知名藏家，吴志诚估计他在澳门多个工业仓库共计存有25万瓶葡萄酒，还聘请了四个人来管理这些藏品。
这笔交易在5月份悄悄完成。但法国媒体上周发现买主是这位中国藏家，随后这一消息在法国引起反弹。当地很多农户和政界人士担心外国投资者会将讲究技艺的小酿酒商挤出勃艮第，因此呼吁政府出面干预。
午
餐期间，吴志诚一边啜饮2003年产的勃艮第白葡萄酒Drouhin Montrachet Marquis de
Laguiche（这是他最喜欢的葡萄酒之一），一边说，现在我要做补救工作，我只想安抚邻居们。他说，我们并没有把它当成赚钱工具，我没有制定商业计
划。
吴志诚说，他打算斥资800万欧元用于翻新酒庄，已经聘请了一位擅长古迹保护的法国建筑师。吴志诚说，酒庄的面积约10,800平方英尺（约1,000平方米），修复工作最长可能需要三年。他还说，修复完成之后，他希望能够在庄园里消夏。
就连法国政界人士也出来讨论这次收购。来自勃艮第的法国工业部长阿诺?蒙特堡(Arnaud Montebourg)说，他很高兴欢迎外来者进入勃艮第。蒙特堡曾担任多年的勃艮第民选代表。
蒙特堡说，我欢迎外商对法国农业和酿酒行业的投资，因为这有助于提高它们在全世界的知名度。法国政府曾经承诺要在五年内扭转非能源部门的贸易逆差，所以在蒙特堡看来，农业、酿酒业的投资对于政策的推行可能也是很有帮助的。
但
法国国内一些酿酒商对一名外来富豪的进入并没有如此激动。酿酒商让-米切尔?吉永(Jean-Michel
Guillon)曾率领一个团体，试图以500万欧元的价格买下吉夫瑞?香白丹酒庄。他坚决反对吴志诚的收购，呼吁政府出面干预。吉永说，外国人在中国是
不能够买土地的，同理，我们在法国也应该禁止外国人购地。
Christine Hong
澳门博彩业经理人吴志诚（右）和酿酒师埃里克?鲁索。
吉永坚称其反对是基于经济理由，无关种族。他担心大量外资涌入会推高葡萄园的价格，使他在把自己的葡萄园留给子女时付不起转让税。法国政府是根据上一年房地产交易的平均价格来确定转让税的。
与
吴志诚勃艮第酒庄同村的另一位酿酒商让-马里?富里耶(Jean-Marie
Fourrier)说，他也对葡萄园价格的大幅上涨感到担忧。他说，60年前一位农户卖掉一年的收成就能付清购买葡萄园的钱，现在同样的土地要用50年的
收成才能付清。他说，很多年轻一代不想一辈子都在还银行的钱。
其他一些观察人士认为吴志诚收购价太高，说这个葡萄园地理位置算是中等，产的葡萄质量一般。
勃艮第葡萄酒评论家、伦敦酒商Berry Bros. & Rudd采购员贾斯珀?莫里斯(Jasper Morris)说，不是中国人盗走了法国人的东西，而是法国人宰了中国人一笔；这并不是一笔了不起的产业，我在想大家为什么还要如此大惊小怪。
他说，酒庄的状况非常糟，修好它将使吴志诚和整个村庄脸上有光。
酿酒工作将交给波尔多顶级酿酒师埃里克?鲁索(Eric Rousseau)管理，他将租下土地、打理葡萄园，同时把三分之一的产量交给吴志诚。预计这个葡萄园一年的产量在1万瓶到1.2万瓶之间。
在
香港的葡萄酒界，吴志诚这笔投资成了热议的话题。80年代就开始收藏葡萄酒的香港退休律师张定球(Vincent
Cheung)称吴志诚是亚洲最大的藏家之一，有着非常成熟的品味。他表示吴志诚收购葡萄园是明智之举，因为在勃艮第的地产上拥有一个酒庄实在少见。在波
尔多，有着大面积生活区的葡萄园远远多于勃艮第。
吴志诚说，香港富豪恭喜他买下了这个葡萄园。他说，富豪们给我打电话，都说这是一笔相当不错的买卖。
2012年 09月 04日 09:09
Vineyard Buyer Pledges to Make Peace
Louis Ng, the Macau casino executive who faced a vitriolic backlash in
France after he bought a vineyard in Burgundy, says the reaction was
'beyond expectations' and is pledging to pour at least 8 million ($10
million) into the estate to restore it to its former glory.
Mr.
Ng, a multimillionaire, says he is determined to pacify his new
neighbors. In his first interview with the media since the furor erupted
in France last week, the chief operating officer of SJM Holdings Ltd.,
the hotels and casino company founded by tycoon Stanley Ho, said the
purchase was an 'emotional investment.'
The 60-year-old Mr. Ng is
the leader and largest shareholder of a group of six Hong Kong
investors who in May paid 8 million for Chateau de Gevrey-Chambertin, a
run-down 12th-century residence along with 2.3 hectares of vines. A
well-known collector among the region's wine lovers, Mr. Ng─who owns
2.3% of SJM Holdings, a stake valued at US$263 million─estimates he owns
250,000 bottles spread among several industrial warehouses in Macau and
employs four people to handle his collection.
The deal was
completed quietly in May. But when the French media uncovered the
Chinese oenophile to be the buyer last week, a backlash ensued in
France, with many local farmers and politicians calling on the
government to intervene, fearing that wealthy foreign investors would
push out the small, artisanal winemakers in the region.
'Now, I
have remedial work. I just want to appease my neighbors,' said Mr. Ng
over lunch, between sips of a 2003 Drouhin Montrachet Marquis de
Laguiche, a Burgundy white wine that is among his favorites. 'We don't
see this as a moneymaking vehicle,' he said. 'I don't have a business
plan.'
Mr. Ng said he intends to spend 8 million on the
renovations of the property and has employed a French architect who
specializes in historical preservation. Work on the chateau, with about
10,800 square feet of space, could take as long as three years, Mr. Ng
said. He added that he hopes to spend parts of his summer at the mansion
after it is redone.
Even French politicians are weighing in on
the purchase. French Industry Minister Arnaud Montebourg, who is from
Burgundy, says he is happy to welcome outsiders to the region, where he
was for years an elected representative.
'I'm in favor of foreign
investment in French agriculture and winemaking, because it helps them
shine around the world,' Mr. Mountebourg said. For the minister, whose
government has pledged to reverse France's nonenergy trade deficit
within five years, such investments could also prove helpful from a
policy front.
But some local winemakers in France aren't so
thrilled with the arrival of a rich outsider. Jean-Michel Guillon, a
winemaker who led a group who tried to buy the property for 5 million,
is staunchly opposed to the deal, calling on government to intervene.
'You can't buy land in China as a foreigner,' Mr. Guillon said. 'It's
logical for us to do the same here in France.'
Mr. Guillon
insists that the opposition is about economics, not ethnicity. He fears
an influx of foreign capital will drive up the price of vineyards and
make it difficult for him to pay the transfer tax when he passes his own
to his children. The French government bases the transfer tax on the
average price of the previous year's real-estate transactions.
Jean-Marie
Fourrier, another winemaker in the same village as Mr. Ng's Burgundy
estate, said he is also concerned about a spike in vineyard prices.
Sixty years ago, a farmer could pay off the price of acquiring a
vineyard from the proceeds of one harvest, he said. These days, the same
land requires 50 years of work to pay it off. 'A lot of younger people
don't want to be paying the bank for all of their life,' he said.
Other observers contend that Mr. Ng vastly overpaid for the estate, saying it grows mediocre vines in a middling location.
'It's
not that the Chinese have stolen from the French, but the French seem
to be ripping off the Chinese,' said Jasper Morris, a Burgundy wine
critic and buyer for Berry Bros. & Rudd in London. 'It's not a great
property. I wonder why there's such a fuss.'
He added that a
restoration of the chateau, which he says is in 'very bad condition,'
would be 'a credit to him and the village.'
The winemaking will
be left to Eric Rousseau, a top Burgundian winemaker, who will lease the
land and tend to the vines while giving Mr. Ng one-third of the
production, expected to be between 10,000 and 12,000 bottles a year.
In
Hong Kong's wine circles, Mr. Ng's new venture is making news. Vincent
Cheung, a retired Hong Kong lawyer and a wine collector since the 1980s,
called Mr. Ng 'one of the biggest collectors in Asia' with 'very
sophisticated tastes.' He called Mr. Ng's purchase a 'clever move
because it's so rare to have a chateau on your property in Burgundy.'
Wine estates with large-scale living quarters are much more likely to be
found than in the Bordeaux region than in Burgundy.
Mr. Ng said
Hong Kong's wealthiest are congratulating him on the purchase. 'The rich
tycoons are calling me,' he said. 'They all say, 'Wow, what a smart
buy.' '
JASON CHOW
