 中国大饭店阿丽雅餐厅澳洲大厨Phillip Taylor，来自澳大利亚，拥有七年烹饪厨技，曾任职于大洋洲、欧洲及亚洲的多家著名餐厅，来北京前, 泰勒曾在悉尼香格里拉大酒店Altitude餐厅担任副厨师长。  辨认各个部位的牛肉 Identifying cuts of beef:  关于不同部位牛肉的特点，请大家记住一条最基本的规律：距离牛的腿和脖子（因为这是牛身上最经常活动的两个部位）越远的部分，用做牛排时肉质就越嫩越好吃。离腿和脖子近的部分比较适合做炖牛肉，这部分我将会在入冬时节教给大家。那么我们现在就来看看哪些部位适合做牛排吧： A very basic general rule for beef; the further away the cut of beef is from the legs/neck (the parts of the animal that regularly move), the more tender the cut will be when cooked as a steak. In winter I'll start looking into braised cuts of meat, but the cuts useful for steak are as follows: 臀肉牛排，西冷牛排(沙朗牛排)，牛里脊排(菲力牛排)，肉眼牛排，带骨肉眼牛排，T骨牛排。 Rump, sirloin, tenderloin, rib eye, bone in rib eye, and T bone. 每个部位的牛肉其味道和口感各不相同，很难用语言来形容。想知道自己更喜欢哪种，最好的方式就是每种都尝一遍。如果你很在意饮食健康，那么牛里脊排是最好的选择。但如果你希望在一块牛排上品尝到不同的肉质口感，肉眼牛排则更适合你。如果喜欢带有薄薄一层入口即化的肥肉的牛排，那你一定要选西冷牛排。如果自己一个人吃，我个人最喜欢的是肉眼牛排，要是和同伴一起，则会选择带骨肉眼牛排一同分享。 The various types of beef cuts have different flavor and texture that is hard to describe; the best way to find out which cut you like is to try all of them. If you are being health conscious tenderloin may be the cut of your choice. However if you like different textures within the meat, rib eye would be more suitable. If you enjoy a thin layer of nicely caramelized fat, sirloin is definitely your pick. My favorite steak cut is rib eye if eating alone, or a bone in rib eye to share if I have company. 在我的餐厅，我们用精确到1摄氏度的标准来测量牛排的内部温度，这样可以确保每一块牛排都达到客人要求的最准确的熟度。每种熟度的温度标准为： 近生牛排28摄氏度，一分熟牛排36摄氏度，三分熟牛排42摄氏度，五分熟牛排50摄氏度，七分熟牛排60摄氏度，全熟牛排65摄氏度。 In my restaurant we take the internal temperature within 1°C of the correct temperature to ensure we consistently achieve the correct level of doneness. Temperatures of doneness are： 28°C Blue, 36°C Rare, 42°C Medium Rare, 50°C Medium, 60°C Medium Well, 65°C Well Done.  上图右边是在我曾工作过的一间餐厅的厨房里拍的，这样就没人能为自己煎不到牛排的正确熟度找借口了。 At one of the restaurants I worked at, this was written on the pass, nobody could use an excuse for overcooking a steak. 用平底锅来煎牛排的步骤： (大部分客人会点五分熟的牛排，那么我就来做一份五分熟的牛排给大家) Cooking Steak in a Pan: (Most our guests order medium, I’ll prepare a medium steak) 1．在煎之前先把牛排在室温下放置十分钟，以使牛肉达到和室温同样的温度。这样可以保证在煎制过程中热量能更容易地穿透牛肉。如果牛排太冷就开始煎，还没等中间部分达到你想要的熟度时，外部就已经煎得太老了。 1. Allow your steak to come up to room temperature by leaving it on the bench top for 10 minutes prior to cooking. This allows the heat to move easily through the beef. If the steak is too cold, the outside will be well done before we reach medium in the middle.  2. 加盐和胡椒。加的时候要考虑到牛排的大小。越厚的牛排，需要放的调味料就越多。和海鲜比起来，肉类需要更多的调味料，所以不要吝啬你的盐和胡椒。另外，在开始煎制之前就放调味料很重要，这让盐有足够的时间渗透到整个牛排里。 2. Season your steak; take into consideration the size of the cut. The thicker the cut, the more seasoning. Meat generally can be seasoned a lot more than seafood, so don’t be shy with the seasoning. It’s important to season the meat just before cooking, allowing the salt to penetrate into the meat. 3．煎制时间 现在告诉大家一个我个人发明的小窍门。之前我可从没告诉过别人，因为它听起来有一点奇怪。这个窍门就是——量一下牛排的厚度(不过可千万别在专业的厨房里用这招) ，然后乘以2，得出的结果就是煎制一份五分熟牛排所需的总时间。 比如，煎制一份3厘米厚的肉眼牛排，乘以2 (因为要煎双面)，一共需要6分钟。 如果需要煎制不同熟度的牛排，每一级可以相应加或减2分钟。 所以，煎制一块3厘米厚的牛排所需时间为： 全熟：10分钟 七分熟：8分钟 五分熟：6分钟(每面各3分钟) 三分熟：4分钟 一分熟：2分钟 近生：这种熟度的做法比较特殊，仅需把牛排在一个比较暖的地方(大约30摄氏度)放置10分钟，然后很快地煎一下两面，就可以吃了(不过中国人是很少能接受得了近生牛排的，估计大家也用不上这个)。 *如果牛排里有骨(比如带骨肉眼牛排)，一般需要比同样厚度的无骨牛排多煎4-6分钟(具体时间由骨头的大小决定)，因为骨头会妨碍热量的渗透。 *如果你是专业厨师，我很怀疑你的数学足够好到可以同时应付50份牛排，这个时候就要靠经验了。 3. COOKING TIME Here’s a little trick I developed personally, and I never tell anyone because it just sounds weird. Measure the thickness of your steak (don’t do it if you’re in a professional kitchen, trust me). Multiply it by 2, and that’s your total cooking time. E.g 3cm-thick rib eye multiplied by 2 (for cooking two sides) gives you a total cooking time of 6 minutes. Add or subtract 2 minutes to reach the next level of doneness. So for a steak that is 3cm in thickness: Well Done: 10 Minutes Medium well: 8 Minutes Medium: 6 Minutes(3 minutes each side) Medium Rare: 4 Minutes Rare: 2 Minutes Blue: Is a special case, I just place it in a warm spot for 10 minutes (around 30°C). Sear very quickly and serve, no need to rest. * If it has a bone in it (i.e. bone in rib eye), it usually requires an extra 4-6 minutes (depending on the size of the bone) as bone density stops heat penetrating the meat. * If you’re a chef, I doubt you are that good at maths when you have 50 steaks on order; learn to cook by experience. 4. 把厚底平底锅(耐高温且受热均匀的)放在高火上烧热，放油(我平时做饭并不用橄榄油，但我觉得煎牛排的时候还是值得加些橄榄油和蔬菜油混合在一起的)，只要油一开始冒烟就把牛排放进锅里，然后开始计时！ 4. Place a heavy based pan (one that can handle high heat and conduct heat evenly) on the stove, and bring to a high heat. Add oil (I usually don’t cook with olive oil, but for steaks I feel it’s worth using a blended olive and vegetable oil), as soon as you see the oil begin to smoke add the steak to the pan, and start your timer! 5. 把牛排放入锅中后，就可以把火稍微调低到中高火。然后你就不用管它了(放松一下吧，倒杯红酒喝)。3分钟以后把牛排翻过来继续煎，然后继续回去喝你的红酒。 5. Once the steak is in the pan turn it down slightly to a medium-high heat. And just let it cook, you don’t need to touch it at all (just relax, take a sip of wine). At the three-minute point turn the steaks, and go back to your wine:)  6. 到距离计时结束还差一分钟的时候，把火关掉，但牛排要继续留在锅里。往锅里放一小块黄油再撒一把百里香。随着黄油的融化，用一个勺子不停地盛起黄油泡沫浇在牛排上。当你在这时闻到香气四溢的牛排，就能理解当厨师是件多么美妙的事了！ 6. Once there is only a minute left on the clock, turn the heat off, but leave the steak in the pan. Place a small amount of butter into the pan and a few sprigs of thyme. Use a spoon to continuously pour the nutty brown butter over the steak. At this point when you smell the roasted steak, you should understand why being a cook is so awesome! 7. 当计时结束后，从锅里盛出牛排，并把剩余的棕色黄油汁淋在牛排上。如果牛排准备搭配酱汁来吃，就把锅先放一边留用，因为锅里还留有牛排的余香(酱汁的做法在后面)。 7. Once your timer finishes remove the steak from the pan and allow to rest, drizzle over the nut brown butter. Keep your pan if you want to make a sauce, all the flavor is stuck in the pan; keep it aside (Find sauce recipes below). 8. 晾置牛排。牛肉里的肌肉纤维原本在高温状态下全都收紧了，晾置一会儿它们才能重新舒展放松下来。一般来说晾置时长至少需要煎牛排总时间的一半，也就是说现在至少需要晾置3分钟。晾置更长的时间也没问题，但要小心别把牛排放凉了。如果放凉了，可以放在热烤箱里快速加温一下或放回平底锅给表面稍微加热一下。要想做出肉质嫩软的牛排，晾置非常重要，和煎制过程同样重要，所以请千万别忽略这一步。 8. Resting; allowing the steak's muscle fibers that have contracted, due to the high heat,to slightly cool and expand again. The general rule for resting is at least half the cooking time, so in this case it would be 3 minutes. Resting longer is ok, just don’t let it go cold. A quick flash in a hot oven or back in the pan to warm the surface won’t overcook your steak. Resting is crucial for a nice tender steak, as crucial as cooking the steak itself, so please calm yourself and allow the steak to rest. 9. 把整块牛排切成几大片，注意切成的片越小牛排就凉得越快。挤上一些柠檬汁后就可以好好享用你的牛排了！如果还想要搭配酱汁的话，下面会教给大家洋葱黑胡椒汁和奶油蘑菇汁的做法。 9. Carve your steak into large pieces, the smaller the piece, the faster it gets cold. Enjoy with a squeeze of lemon, or read on to learn how to make onion and pepper sauce / mushroom cream sauce.   * 最好先做酱汁然后再煎牛排，在晾置牛排时把事先做好的酱汁放在煎过牛排的平底锅里再加热一下，这样酱汁里也有牛肉的香味了。 * It’s a good idea to make the sauces first, and then reheat them back in the pan that you cooked the steak in to pick up the entire meat flavor left in the pan. 洋葱黑胡椒汁 Onion and Pepper Sauce:  洋葱切细丝，和适量橄榄油一起倒入热锅。 Finely slice your onions, and place them in a hot pan with a splash of olive oil.  高火不停翻炒直至洋葱变成金黄色。放入黑胡椒和百里香，和洋葱混在一起继续翻炒。 Place it on high heat and get a nice golden color on your onions whilst constantly stirring. Add pepper and thyme, then mix them through the onions. 往锅里倒一杯红酒，煮至红酒收汁。把百里香的杆从锅中取出来，最后加盐。 Add a cup of red wine. Allow the red wine to reduce to a glaze. Remove the thyme stalks from the sauce and add seasoning. 这是我个人最喜欢的配汁，简单，健康，而且没有什么比红酒、黑胡椒和洋葱更适合搭配牛排的了。好好享受美味吧！ This is my favorite sauce. It’s healthy, simple and nothing compliments steak better than red wine, pepper and onion. Enjoy. 奶油蘑菇汁 Mushroom Cream Sauce:  香菇入锅直到变成金黄色，然后加入杏鲍菇，之后加洋葱碎和蒜片。当洋葱变软呈金黄色时，倒入金针菇和茶树菇。 Add your shitake mushrooms and roast them until golden, then add oyster mushrooms followed by diced onion and garlic. Cook until onions are soft and golden, and then add the enoki and Yunnan mushrooms. 撒入百里香、适量盐和胡椒与蘑菇一起翻炒。 Add your thyme and a little bit salt and pepper, and toss through the mushrooms. 倒入半杯白葡萄酒，继续高火直到酒汁基本挥发掉。 Add half a cup of white wine, and reduce it until it is nearly evaporated. 倒入半杯奶油。稍微收一下汁后关火。挤一些柠檬汁，再根据自己喜好加少量盐和胡椒即可。 Add half a cup of cream. Slightly reduce and remove from heat. Add a squeeze of lemon juice, salt and pepper to taste. 一般来说我不太喜欢以奶油为基调的酱汁，但是在中国蘑菇的种类特别丰富且味道鲜美，所以我很喜欢这道酱汁的口感和味道。好好享用吧！ Usually I’m not a fan of cream based sauces, however the mushroom variety in China is amazing and I really enjoy the flavor and texture of this sauce. Enjoy. |
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