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在马来西亚流行一句顺口溜：“客家人开阜、广府人旺阜、福建人占阜。” 根据马来西亚笨珍客家公会的资料记载，早在18世纪中后期的时候就有大批客家人漂洋过海去到南洋的马来西亚谋生。他们多从事开矿采矿、中药材业、裁缝业、开学办私塾以及餐饮业等。 Hakka immigrants were the earliest Chinese to arrive in Malaysia, followed by the Cantonese and then it was the immigrants from Fujian. According to the records of Benzhen Hakka Association in Malaysia, as early as the middle and late 18th century, a large number of Hakka families went abroad to Malaysia looking for a better life. They are mainly engaged in mining, traditional Chinese medicine business, tailoring, private school tutoring and catering. 马来西亚华人社区有客家烙印。 Hakka people have a deep imprint on the Chinese community in Malaysia. 最常出现在客家人餐桌上的要数著名的客家芋头扣肉。马来西亚历史最悠久的华人第一大媒体《星洲日报》曾经把客家芋头扣肉誉为年夜饭的必备美食。实际上，芋头扣肉已经成为马来西亚华人文化的一个重要组成部分，除了婚丧嫁娶都会做它来吃以外，过年与亲朋好友的聚餐也绝对少不了它。 Among them, the famous Hakka braised pork belly with yam is one of the most common ones. Sin Chew Daily, Malaysia's most influential Chinese newspaper once hailed Hakka braised pork belly with yam as a must-have food on Chinese New Year’s Eve. In fact, this dish has become an important part of Malaysian Chinese culture. Apart from serving it on wedding banquets and festive occasions, Malaysian Hakka people also find it indispensable for dinner with relatives and friends during the Chinese New Year holiday. 客家芋头扣肉用到的调味料与客家梅菜扣肉的调味料有几分接近，比如客家黄酒、老抽、花生油以及白砂糖等，除此之外还有五香粉、胡椒粉、南乳以及八角。据说因为梅菜在马来西亚非常不好栽种，制作梅菜干更是耗时费力。而芋头起源于印度、马来西亚和中国南部等炎热潮湿地带，所以用它来替代梅菜制作芋头扣肉成为绝佳的不二之选。现今，很多马来西亚华人会在自家屋子后的空地上种芋头，为的就是做芋头扣肉。 The seasoning used for Hakka braised pork belly with yam is similar to that used in traditional Hakka braised pork belly with dried Meicai in Guangdong, which includes Hakka rice wine, soy sauce, peanut oil and white sugar, as well as five-spice powder, grained pepper, fermented bean curd and star anise. However, it is said that because Meicai vegetable is very difficult to plant in Malaysia and it is even more time-consuming to make dried Meicai, therefore Malaysian Hakka people replaced Meicai with yam. Yam is originally from the hot and humid areas such as India, Malaysia and southern China, so is the best replacement for Meicai. Nowadays, many Malaysian Chinese grow yam in the open space behind their houses to make this dish. 马来西亚客家文化协会（Persatuan Kebudayaan Hakka Malaysia）提供了一份传统客家芋头扣肉菜谱： According to the Persatuan kebudayaan Hakka Malaysia, below is the Malaysian version of the recipe. 改姓“大马”后的香芋扣肉菜谱 选料：中段的连皮五花腩三层肉一块约1斤、半公斤左右的芋头1个去皮切厚片。 Ingredients: 500g of the “three-layer” pork belly meat with skin, 500g of yam and cut into thick slices. 调料：精盐5克、小冰糖15克、老抽10克、客家黄酒10克、蚝油10克、南乳30克、五香粉30克、胡椒粉5克、大蒜5瓣剁碎、小红葱5粒剁碎、青葱3-4根剁碎、八角6粒碾碎、生粉3克、麻油10克、花生油30克、酱油10克以及水400毫升。 Seasonings: 5g salt, 15g sugar, 10g soy sauce, 10g Hakka rice wine, 10g oyster sauce, 30g fermented soya bean curd, 30g five-spice powder, 5g pepper, 5g garlic, 5g shallot, 3g green onion, 10g aniseed, 3g cornstarch, 10g sesame oil, 30g peanut oil and 400ml water. 步骤/Steps: 将五花肉放入沸水煮20分钟，过冷河后晾凉，沥干水分用叉在猪皮叉洞，抹上酱油和老抽腌制30分钟。 Boil the belly meat for 20 minutes, drain the water, cool it and spread soy sauce over it and marinate for 30 minutes. 将五花肉（皮朝下）放入油锅炸至酥焦状，反过来继续炸，沥油待用。 Fry the streaky pork (with the skin facing down) in the oil pan until it is crisp and scorched. Turn it over, continue to fry and drain excess oil. 把芋头片放入油锅炸至金黄色待用。 Fry yam slices in an oil pan until golden. 起油锅，放入蒜末、小红葱末和麻油炒香后再加入调料中所有剩余的材料，炒匀待滚放一旁待用。 Heat up the wok, stir-fry the garlic, shallot and sesame oil until fragrant, then add all the remaining materials in the seasonings, stir well and put aside. 将花肉和芋头排在碗内，花肉皮朝下，淋上酱汁，放入蒸锅用滚水蒸2小时。最后把芋头扣肉倒扣在一个碟上，洒上少许香菜即可。 Put the pork belly and yam in the bowl, with the skin side facing down, pour on the sauce, put them into the steamer and steam for 2 hours with boiling water. 马来西亚华人偏爱香口食物所以会在芋头扣肉里放入更多的五香粉外加胡椒粉。不过，他们不喜欢油腻，所以用油减少，以获取芋头扣肉肥而不腻的口感。 Malaysian Chinese like to have more savory food, so they put pepper powder and five fragrant powder three times more than those in Guangdong. In addition, local Malaysian Hakka people don't like to eat greasy food, so they use less oil to keep the original taste of yam and meat. 这款大马香芋扣肉深受欢迎，但也非一些媒体吹捧的那样接近“国菜”。因为大马是穆斯林国家，华裔只占20%，这款美味只是大马华人圈中的明星菜肴。 This braised pork belly with yam is very popular in Malaysia, but it is not quite the 'national cuisine' as being called by some media. Because Malaysia is a mostly Muslim nation, with Chinese immigrants accounting for only 20% of the population, so this delicious food is just a star dish in the Chinese circle of Malaysia. |
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