 Coco Chanel famously lived her life according to her own rules. Her musings on elegance, love, and life are as timeless as her classic Chanel designs. 可可香奈儿以我行我素的准则生活而闻名。她对优雅、爱情和生活的思考就像她经典的香奈儿设计一样传世不朽。 With her trademark suits and little black dresses, fashion designer Coco Chanel created timeless designs that are still popular today. 时装设计师可可·香奈儿以她标志性的套装和黑色小裙创造出了永恒的设计，至今仍广受欢迎。 Who Was Coco Chanel? 谁是可可·香奈儿？ Fashion designer Coco Chanel is famous for her timeless designs, trademark suits and little black dresses. In the 1920s, she launched her first perfume and eventually introduced the Chanel suit and the little black dress, with an emphasis on making clothes that were more comfortable for women. She herself became a much revered style icon known for her simple yet sophisticated outfits paired with great accessories, such as several strands of pearls. 时装设计师可可·香奈儿以其永恒的设计、标志性的西装和黑色小礼服而闻名。20世纪20年代，她推出了自己的第一款香水，并最终推出了香奈儿套装和黑色小礼服，重点是打造更适合女性穿着的服装。她自己也成了一位备受尊崇的时尚偶像，以她简单而精致的服装和一些精美的配饰闻名，比如几串珍珠。 Early Life 早年生活 Coco Chanel was born Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel on August 19, 1883, in Saumur, France. Her early years were anything but glamorous. At age 12, after her mother’s death, Chanel was put in an orphanage by her father, who worked as a peddler. 可可·香奈儿于1883年8月19日出生于法国索米尔。原名嘉柏丽尔·香奈儿。她早年普通至极。12岁时，在她母亲去世后，香奈儿被商贩父亲送进了孤儿院。 Chanel was raised by nuns who taught her how to sew — a skill that would lead to her life’s work. Her nickname came from another occupation entirely. During her brief career as a singer, Chanel performed in clubs in Vichy and Moulins where she was called “Coco.” 香奈儿是由修女们抚养长大的，修女们教她如何缝纫——这项技能引导了她进入毕生的事业。而她的绰号完全来自另一个职业。在她短暂的歌手生涯中，香奈儿在维希和穆兰的夜总会演出，在那里她的艺名为“可可” Some say that the name comes from one of the songs she used to sing, and Chanel herself said that it was a “shortened version of cocotte, the French word for 'kept woman,'” according to an article in The Atlantic. 有人说这个名字来源于她曾经唱过的一首歌。而香奈儿本人却说，这是“cocotte的缩写，法语中的“情妇”一词。 这是一本叫《大西洋》的杂志刊文披露的。 Beginnings of a Fashion Empire 时尚王国的开端 Around the age of 20, Chanel became involved with Etienne Balsan, who offered to help her start a millinery business in Paris. She soon left him for one of his wealthier friends, Arthur “Boy” Capel. Both men were instrumental in Chanel’s first fashion venture. 20岁左右，香奈儿与艾蒂安·巴尔桑交往，后者主动提出帮助她在巴黎创办一家女帽店。她很快就离开了他，去找他的一个更富有的朋友，亚瑟“男孩”卡佩尔。这两人都在香奈儿的第一次踏上时装界发挥了重要作用。 Opening her first shop on Paris’s Rue Cambon in 1910, Chanel started out selling hats. She later added stores in Deauville and Biarritz and began making clothes. 1910年，香奈儿在巴黎坎邦街开了第一家店，开始销售帽子。后来她又在多维尔和比亚里茨开了商店，开始做衣服。 Her first taste of clothing success came from a dress she fashioned out of an old jersey on a chilly day. In response to the many people who asked about where she got the dress, she offered to make one for them. “My fortune is built on that old jersey that I’d put on because it was cold in Deauville,” she once told author Paul Morand. 她对服装制作第一次的成功体验来自于她在寒冷的一天用旧球衣做的一件衣服。很多人问她从哪里买的这件衣服，她就回答说给他们做一件。“我的财富建立在我穿的那件旧球衣上，因为在多维尔天气很冷，”她曾对作家保罗·莫兰德说。 Chanel became a popular figure in Parisian literary and artistic worlds. She designed costumes for the Ballets Russes and Jean Cocteau’s play Orphée, and counted Cocteau and artist Pablo Picasso among her friends. 香奈儿成为巴黎文艺界的风云人物。她为芭蕾舞剧《罗素》和让·科克图的戏剧《奥菲》设计服装，并把科克图和艺术家巴勃罗·毕加索纳入她的朋友圈。 First Perfume 第一款香水 In the 1920s, Chanel took her thriving business to new heights. She launched her first perfume, Chanel No. 5, which was the first to feature a designer’s name. Perfume “is the unseen, unforgettable, ultimate accessory of fashion. . . . that heralds your arrival and prolongs your departure,” Chanel once explained. 20世纪20年代，香奈儿将她蒸蒸日上的事业推向了新的高度。她推出了自己的第一款香水香奈儿5号，这是第一款以设计师名字命名的香水。香水“是时尚中看不见的、难忘的、终极的配饰。这预示着你的到来，并延长了你的离开，”香奈儿曾经解释说。 The fragrance was in fact also backed by department store owner Théophile Bader and businessmen Pierre and Paul Wertheimer, with Chanel developing a close friendship with Pierre. 事实上，香奈儿的香水也得到了百货公司老板塞菲尔·巴德以及商人皮埃尔和保罗·韦特海默的支持，香奈儿与皮埃尔建立了密切的友谊。 A deal was ultimately negotiated where the Wertheimer business would take in 70 percent of Chanel No. 5 profits for producing the perfume at their factories, with Bader receiving 20 percent and Chanel herself only receiving 10 percent. Over the years, with No. 5 being a massive source of revenue, she repeatedly sued to have the terms of the deal renegotiated. 最终达成了一项协议，韦特海默公司将从香奈儿5号的利润中提取70%用于在他们的工厂生产香水，巴德获得20%，香奈儿本人仅获得10%。多年来，由于5号是一个巨大的收入来源，她多次起诉要求重新谈判协议条款。 Iconic Designs: Chanel Suit & Little Black Dress 标志性设计：香奈儿套装和黑色小礼服 In 1925, Chanel introduced the now legendary Chanel suit with collarless jacket and well-fitted skirt. Her designs were revolutionary for the time—borrowing elements of men’s wear and emphasizing comfort over the constraints of then-popular fashions. She helped women say goodbye to the days of corsets and other confining garments. 1925年，香奈儿推出了现在传奇的香奈儿西装，无领夹克和合身的裙子。她的设计在当时是革命性的，它借用了男装的元素，强调舒适，而不是当时流行时装的束缚。她帮助妇女告别紧身衣时代。 Another 1920s revolutionary design was Chanel’s little black dress. She took a color once associated with mourning and showed just how chic it could be for evening wear. 另一个20世纪20年代的革命性设计是香奈儿的黑色小礼服。她取了一种曾经与哀悼联系在一起的颜色，展示了晚装的别致。 Closing Down Shop 关闭商店 The international economic depression of the 1930s had a negative impact on Chanel's company, but it was the outbreak of World War II that led her to close her business. She fired her workers and shut down her shops. 上世纪30年代的国际经济大萧条对香奈儿的公司产生了负面影响，但正是二战的爆发导致香奈儿关闭了业务。她解雇了她的工人并关闭了她的商店。 After the war, Chanel left Paris, spending some years in Switzerland in a sort of exile. She also lived at her country house in Roquebrune for a time. 战后，香奈儿离开巴黎，在瑞士流亡了几年。她也曾在罗克文莱的乡间居所住过一段时间。 Return to Fashion 重返时尚圈 At the age of 70, in the early 1950s, Chanel made a triumphant return to the fashion world. She first received scathing reviews from critics, but her feminine and easy-fitting designs soon won over shoppers around the world. 50年代初，70岁那年，香奈儿以胜利者的姿态重返时尚界。她最初受到批评人士的严厉批评，但她的女性化的和宽松的设计很快赢得了世界各地的用户。  Coco Chanel Fact Card Relationships and a Marriage Proposal 浪漫史和求婚 Beginning in 1920, Chanel had a short-lived relationship with composer Igor Stravinsky. Chanel had attended the notorious world premiere of Stravinsky’s “Rite of Spring” in 1913. 从1920年开始，香奈儿与作曲家伊戈尔·斯特拉文斯基（Igor Stravinsky）有了一段短暂的恋爱。1913年，香奈儿出席了臭名昭著的斯特拉文斯基《春天的仪式》全球首映式。 Around 1923, she met the wealthy Hugh Grosvenor, Duke of Westminster, aboard his yacht. The two started a decades-long relationship. In response to his marriage proposal, which she turned down, she reportedly said, “There have been several Duchesses of Westminster—but there is only one Chanel!” 1923年左右，她在威斯敏斯特公爵的游艇上遇到了富有的休·格罗夫纳。两人开始了长达数十年的恋情。据报道，在拒绝他的求婚时，她回应说：“有好几位威斯敏斯特公爵夫人，但只有一位香奈儿！” Life as Nazi Agent During the German occupation of France, Chanel got involved with a Nazi military officer, Hans Gunther von Dincklage. She got special permission to stay in her apartment at the Hotel Ritz in Paris, which also operated as German military headquarters. 在德国占领法国期间，香奈儿与一名纳粹军官汉斯·冈瑟·冯·丁克拉格有牵连。她得到特别许可，可以住在巴黎丽兹酒店的公寓里，而这家酒店也是德国的军事总部。 After the war ended, Chanel was interrogated about her relationship with von Dincklage, but she was not charged as a collaborator. Some have wondered whether friend Winston Churchill worked behind the scenes on Chanel’s behalf. 战争结束后，香奈儿被审问与冯·丁克拉格的关系，但她没有被指控为合作者。有人怀疑朋友温斯顿·丘吉尔是否在幕后为香奈儿托了人情。 While not officially charged, Chanel suffered in the court of public opinion. Some still viewed her relationship with a Nazi officer as a betrayal of her country. 虽然没有正式起诉，但香奈儿却饱受舆论之苦。因为一些人仍然认为她与纳粹军官的关系是对她的国家的背叛。 Death Chanel died on January 10, 1971, at her apartment in the Hotel Ritz. She never married, having once said “I never wanted to weigh more heavily on a man than a bird.” Hundreds crowded together at the Church of the Madeleine to bid farewell to the fashion icon. In tribute, many of the mourners wore Chanel suits. 香奈儿于1971年1月10日在丽兹酒店的公寓去世。她从未结过婚，她曾经说过“我从来都不想给男人比鸟更重的负担”，成百上千的人聚集在马德兰教堂，向这位时尚偶像告别。为表示敬意，许多哀悼者都穿着香奈儿套装。 A little more than a decade after her death, designer Karl Lagerfeld took the reins at her company to continue the Chanel legacy. Today her namesake company is held privately by the Wertheimer family and continues to thrive, believed to generate hundreds of millions in sales each year. 在她去世十多年后，设计师卡尔·拉格菲尔德接手了她的公司，并延续着香奈儿的传统。如今，她的同名公司被韦特海默家族（Wertheimer family）私人控股，并继续蓬勃发展，据信每年能创造数以亿计的销售额。 Movies, Books and Plays on Chanel In 1969, Chanel’s fascinating life story became the basis for the Broadway musical Coco, starring Katharine Hepburn as the legendary designer. Alan Jay Lerner wrote the book and lyrics for the show’s song while Andre Prévin composed the music. Cecil Beaton handled the set and costume design for the production. The show received seven Tony Award nominations, and Beaton won for Best Costume Design and René Auberjonois for Best Featured Actor. 1969年，香奈儿引人入胜的人生故事成为百老汇音乐剧《可可》的故事来源，凯瑟琳·赫本（Katharine Hepburn）出演了这位传奇设计师。艾伦·杰伊·勒纳为该剧的歌曲写了书和歌词，安德烈·普雷文则创作了音乐。塞西尔·比顿负责制作布景和服装设计。该剧获得7项托尼奖提名，比顿获得最佳服装设计奖，雷内·奥贝乔诺瓦获得最佳男主角奖。 Several biographies of the fashion revolutionary have also been written, including Chanel and Her World (2005), written by Chanel's friend Edmonde Charles-Roux. 这位时尚革命者的传记也被写了下来，包括《香奈儿和她的世界》（2005），这是由香奈儿的朋友埃德蒙德 ·查尔斯·鲁克斯创作的。 In the 2008 television movie Coco Chanel, Shirley MacLaine starred as the famous designer around the time of her 1954 career resurrection. The actress told WWD that she had long been interested in playing Chanel. “What’s wonderful about her is she’s not a straightforward, easy woman to understand.” 在2008年的电视电影《可可香奈儿》中，雪莉·麦克莱恩出演了这位著名设计师在1954年的职业生涯复苏之际的日子。这位女演员告诉女装日报说，她一直对扮演香奈儿很感兴趣。“她最棒的地方是，她不是一个直截了当、容易理解的女人。” In the 2008 film Coco Before Chanel, French actress Audrey Tautou played Chanel in her early years, from childhood to the founding of her fashion house. In 2009, Coco Chanel & Igor Stravinsky detailed Chanel's relationship with the composer. 在2008年的电影《香奈儿之前的可可》中，法国女演员奥黛丽·陶托扮演早年的香奈儿，既从童年到创立时装屋。2009年，《可可香奈儿和伊戈尔斯特拉文斯基》则详细介绍了香奈儿与作曲家的关系。 millinery 女帽店 corset 紧身胸衣 |
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