【原】达芬奇是手袋之父？

Amber看世界 2021-05-21

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Leonardo da Vinci was a Renaissance man in every sense of the word.

列昂纳多·达·芬奇是一个彻头彻尾的文艺复兴大师。

He was a sculptor, architect, scientist, engineer and, of course, painter, who created some of the world's most famous artworks.

他是雕刻家、建筑师、科学家、工程师，当然还有画家，他创作了一些世界上最著名的艺术品。

He is less well known, however, for his early imagining of one of a modern fashion essential: the handbag.

然而，他还有一个不太为人所知的地方在于，他对现代时尚的一项基本要素——手袋——的早期设想。

In the bottom corner of a page of the Codex Atlanticus, the largest known collection of Leonardo's drawings and notes, he drew a detailed sketch of a patterned handbag among his designs for cogs, gears, box mechanisms and sliding doors.

在已知最大的达芬奇绘画和笔记收藏《大西洋抄本》的一页底角，他在自己设计的旋轴、齿轮、盒子机构和滑动门中，画了一个有图案手袋的详细草图。

"Leonardo, who everybody thinks is a polymath, the greatest genius of our time, also designed a handbag," academic Shahidha Bari, author of the newly published "Dressed: The Secret Life of Clothes," said in a phone interview.

最新出版的《着装:服装的秘密生活》一书的作者、学者沙迪哈.巴里在接受电话采访时说:“莱昂纳多是我们这个时代最伟大的天才，大家都认为他是个博学的人。他还设计了一个手提包。”

"The bag, in many ways, is similar to a 20th-century handbag. It has brass fastenings at the top, is made of brown calfskin, and it has a top clasp. It's like a classic handbag that your mum might have."

“这款包在很多方面都类似于20世纪的手袋。它的顶部有黄铜紧固件，由棕色的牛犊皮制成，顶部有一个搭扣。这就像你妈妈可能拥有的一个经典手袋。”

Centuries later, the designs inspired high fashion.

几个世纪后，这些设计激发了高级时装的灵感。

In 2012, Italian fashion house Gherardini produced a limited number of dark calfskin bags based on Leonardo's sketches.

2012年，意大利时装公司盖拉尔迪尼根据列奥纳多的素描，限量生产了几款黑色小牛皮包。

The sketch wasn't the artist's first foray into accessories.

这幅素描并不是这位艺术家首次涉足配饰领域。

According to Bari, he also designed saddle bags for transporting goods across the Nile on camels.

据巴里说，他还设计了用骆驼驮货物过河的鞍袋。

"Bags are crucial feats of engineering. How you carry things from one place to another is the foundation of our modern society. Haulage, freight, conveyance, importing and exporting," Bari said.

“包是工程学的重要成就。你如何把东西从一个地方搬到另一个地方是我们现代社会的基础。运输、货运、运输、进出口都是如此。”巴里说。

Although the bag is incredibly detailed, decorated with twisted curlicues, the Renaissance master's main motivation for designing it may have been practicality.

尽管这款包非常精致，装饰着蜿蜒的曲线美，但这位文艺复兴时期的大师设计这款包的主要动机可能却是实用性。

"The handbag is like a project, an intellectual engineering project, a mathematical puzzle for Leonardo. He designs a handbag because he is thinking 'How do you safely transport goods?'

“对于达芬奇来说，这个手袋就像一个项目，一个智力工程项目，一个数学难题。他设计手袋是因为他在思考“如何安全地运输货物?”

It's a little problem that in this passing moment he is puzzling over, and centuries later we inherit this design and somebody decides to make it," Bari said.

这是一个小问题，在这个短暂的时刻，他在苦苦思索，几个世纪后，我们继承了这个设计，有人决定把它做出来，”巴里说。

"It turns out to be this relatively modern and attractive handbag that lots of us would want to buy."

“事实证明，这是一个相对现代、有吸引力的手袋，我们很多人都想买。”