埃及十日游（七）菲莱神庙

  修阿斯旺大坝，淹了两个神庙，其中一个就是菲莱神庙。十九世纪末修阿斯旺老坝的时候，就把菲莱神庙给淹了，一年中，有半年的时候，完全淹在水下，那时候要看得坐船看水中的它。后来修高坝，水要更深，啥时候坐船都看不见了。1979年就把它给拆了，在菲莱岛北面地势高的阿格利卡岛上重新安装。那工程可谓浩大，四万五千块石头和一百多根石柱拆下来，拼上去，完了和在菲莱岛上的一模一样。

        菲莱神庙建于公元三百年前，托勒密王朝的二世费拉迪弗新在古法老神庙的废墟上修建了这座伊西丝神庙，伊西丝是古埃及司掌博爱、快乐、音乐和生育的女神，很受埃及人爱戴。这是现存最完好的三座托勒密王朝庙宇之一，被称为“法老宝座上的明珠”、“尼罗河的明珠”。

        与菲莱神庙和伊西丝有关的，还有一个凄婉动人的旷世爱情故事。伊西丝和哥哥也是她的丈夫俄赛里斯共同统治着埃及，俄赛里斯的孪生兄弟赛特设计，让哥哥钻进了漂亮的石棺，把他杀死。尸体被切为16块丢弃到世界各地，伊西丝历尽千难万险找回了丈夫的尸体碎块，并用爱心使其复活，并生了儿子何露斯。他们的儿子长大后，终于杀死了叔叔替父报了仇。而这个菲莱岛就是找到俄赛里斯头颅的地方。

        为了让大伙明白这个故事，小法老把大伙集合起来，让团友分别扮演着哥哥，媳妇和弟弟，他在那不停地白话，呵呵。

        这么美的地方，看见别人都在摄像，我没带，肠子都悔青了。

        从菲莱神庙回来，小法老又领着我们去看未完成的方尖碑。

        阿斯旺这个地方是古埃及的花岗岩产地，古埃及那些方尖碑在这里做完后，等着尼罗河发大水的时候，运到各个神庙。现在还留在采石场的这根，可能是做了半截，发现中间有裂缝，就废弃了，没有继续。这根方尖碑41米长，三个面露天，还有一面和岩体相连，没有切割。古埃及人真有办法！                                                                                   -

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35 这个41米的方尖碑头朝着我。太长，咋也不能体现它的长度啊！