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老博说... LaoBo musing : 我为啥喜欢普洱茶? Why would a Swiss ...

 素言A 2016-10-17

Blog 2

我旅行时常想念一杯好普洱!最近,我旅行时也开始带上一点,当然不是最好的,因为我总是一个人喝,旅馆里的自来水可能有氯的味道,而我珍贵的茶叶,揉在行李中的衣服里,有时长达几个月!…但是,一个瑞士老头为什么喜欢普洱茶呢?

我猜,那理由可能跟许多爱普洱茶的中国人一样吧!真正的普洱茶:从森林中的老茶树上采摘来的生茶叶简直是神奇的!凑在鼻尖有森林蜂蜜的气味,入口有细致的甘甜,滑顺入喉。它非常像上等的红葡萄酒:扎根于当地的文化,穿越历史的深度,带着两千年的尝试错误,来到我们眼前。它是自然的礼物,再由人类的耐心耕耘臻至完美。

就像葡萄藤之于葡萄,茶树之于茶叶,都是老的更好:虽然产量减少,但它们扎得深深的老根可以赋予葡萄或茶叶更丰富的口感。经过细心的采收及爱心的准备,两者都是味觉的奇迹!它们的口感会因为土壤,日照方向,高度,发酵和其他因素而变化。我对如何酿制好酒,和制作好普洱茶汁仅仅了解皮毛,我只懂得如何尽情地享用它们!!

但是买家请注意了!每个卖茶的人都会告诉你,他的普洱茶是古树茶。但只要放眼看看四周的茶园大多是农药化肥种出来的台地茶,就知道古树茶真的是很难得的!更何况,据我所知,很多不在西双版纳产的茶,如思茅及更远的地区,也可以被叫做为普洱茶…。总之,要买到好茶,要嘛你就非常懂普洱茶,要嘛就非常了解卖你茶叶的人…

When I traveled abroad, I used to miss some good Pu’er tea ! Lately, I started to take some with me, of course not the best, as I will most likely be alone to drink it, the tap water of my hotel might taste of chlorine and my precious leaves will be in my luggage, with my clothes, for the duration of my trip, which can sometimes last a few months !… But why would an old Swiss guy like Pu’er tea ?

For the same reasons so many Chinese love it, I guess. The real thing : shen cha leaves from old tea trees mixed with forest is just magic. It smells like forest honey, with a delicate taste which washes down your throat so easily. It is also very much like good wine : it is embedded in the local culture and comes to us from the depth of history, through two thousand years of trials and errors …. It is a gift of nature, slowly perfected by patient and talented people…

Just like the grapes of the vine, the leaves of the tea tree get better when the plant get older : as productivity decreases, the deeper roots allow for more taste extraction. When carefully harvested and lovingly prepared, both can be a wonder, whose taste will vary according to the soil, solar exposition, altitude, fermentation and more. I really know just a bit about how to do a good wine or a great Pu’er tea. I have however learned to enjoy them, a lot !

But let the buyer beware ! Everybody will tell you that the Pu’er tea they sell is from old tea trees… But it’s enough to look at the landscape to see that most tea is just taidicha, often treated with chemical fertilizer and pesticides. Besides, I have learned that tea from far away from Xishuangbanna and the neighboring Simao Prefecture can officially be called Pu’er tea… In short, you must either understand Pu’er tea or know the people you’re dealing with...

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