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【国外新鲜事】小型酿酒商展示了手工精酿啤酒如何重塑经济,但手工产业正面临着巨大威胁

 徒步者的收藏 2019-03-28



Our economy currently relies heavily on unsustainable industrial principles of mass scale, never-ending growth and throwaway consumerism. The transition to a sustainable economy, then, requires a shift in how we think about production.

我们的经济目前严重依赖于不可持续的大规模工业原则、永无止境的增长和一次性消费主义。因此,向可持续经济的转型,需要我们改变对生产的看法。

In contrast to industrial production, craft production prioritises local production, human skill and excellence. Although craft
principles were cast aside as industries were modernised, a revival is taking place. Examples of craft revival are visible in many sectors, ranging from butchering to textile production, but one of the most illustrative examples comes from the booming craft beer sector.

与工业生产相比,手工生产优先考虑本地生产、人类技能和卓越表现。尽管随着工业的现代化,手工原则被抛诸脑后,但一场复兴正在上演。从屠宰到纺织生产,许多行业都出现了手工复兴的例子,但最具说服力的例子之一来自蓬勃发展的精酿啤酒行业。



Yet demand does not change in isolation. It requires producers that are willing and able to follow alternative production principles and educate consumers. A recent study of the Dutch beer brewing industry found that the increasing success of the craft movement was in large part driven by a growing and eclectic group of beer enthusiasts that devoted themselves to becoming brew masters, regenerated craft brewing techniques and revived a declining industry in the process. The craft beer revival shows that a transition away from unsustainable, industrial production is possible and desirable.

然而,需求并没有孤立地改变。它要求生产商愿意并且能够遵循替代生产原则并教育消费者。最近对荷兰啤酒酿造业的一项研究发现,精酿运动日益成功,很大程度上是由越来越多的、折衷的啤酒爱好者推动的,他们致力于成为酿酒大师、再生手工酿造技术,并在这一过程中复兴了一个衰落的行业。
精酿啤酒的复兴表明,从不可持续的工业生产转型是可能的,也是可取的。

But these craft change-makers face challenges. The main issue for any incipient craft movement is to shake off the idea that craft is an outdated mode of production, strictly adhering to historic methods and recipes.

但这些手工变革者面临着挑战。任何早期手工运动的主要问题,则是摆脱手工是一种过时生产方式、严格遵循历史方法和配方的观念。

The craft beer revolution, for example, was not possible in places such as Germany and Belgium, which have maintained historic beer brewing traditions. There, breweries tend to strictly follow narrow interpretations of what traditional craft production means and have expectations about how and where craft skill should be applied, such as following age-old community specific recipes. This conception of “craft” constrains innovation – and indeed both countries lack the rich innovative craft brewing scene that has developed elsewhere.

例如,精酿啤酒革命在德国和比利时等地是不可能的,因为这些国家一直保持着历史悠久的啤酒酿造传统。在那里,酿酒厂往往严格遵循对传统手工生产含义的狭隘解释,并对手工技能的应用方式和应用地点抱有期望,比如遵循古老的社区特定配方。这种“手工”的概念限制了创新——事实上,两国都缺乏在其他地方发展起来的丰富的创新精酿场景。

Successful craft movements, on the other hand, smartly harness the power of localism, authenticity and nostalgia without getting stuck in the past. This attitude was clearly expressed by one Dutch brewer:
I have always been bothered by the false romanticism that beer lovers like to hear and the ordinary reality of beer brewing. Beer brewing is a craft. You write your own recipes. There is no such thing as old recipes. All beers that were brewed 100 years ago are disgusting.

另一方面,成功的手工精酿运动巧妙地利用了地方主义、真实性和怀旧的力量,而不会陷入过去。一位荷兰酿酒商明确表达了这种态度:
我一直被啤酒爱好者喜欢听的虚假浪漫主义和啤酒酿造的普通现实所困扰。啤酒酿造是一门手艺。你要自己写配方,没有所谓的老配方。所有100年前酿造的啤酒其实都很恶心。

This is an extreme opinion: generally traditions are navigated more respectfully. Through craft, brewers stress their traditional, independent background while experimenting and making entirely new beers. It’s important to open up the definition of craft and to find a productive balance between tradition and innovation.

这是一个极端的观点:一般来说,传统更受尊重。通过手工酿造,酿酒师强调他们的传统,独立的背景,同时试验和制造全新的啤酒。重新定义手工,在传统和创新之间找到一个有效的平衡点是很重要的。

Another challenge for the modern craft movement is the reality that any organisation can be bought. Although initially craft brewers were able to build a separate market for craft beer and resist the lure of big money, incumbent industrial brewers are now taking over successful craft breweries at increasing speed.

现代手工运动的另一个挑战是,任何组织都可以被收买。尽管最初手工酿酒厂能够为精酿啤酒建立一个独立的市场,并抵御巨额资金的诱惑,但现在,现代工业酿酒厂正以越来越快的速度接管成功的手工酿酒厂。

In the Netherlands, one of the most successful craft breweries, De Molen in Bodegraven, has recently been acquired by Bavaria, one of the four large incumbent brewers. Bavaria also owns the Dutch abbey brewery, De Koningshoeven, known for its authentic Trappist beer, while Heineken acquired the oldest still running brewery, Brand, in the early 2000s. This signals a new era of consolidation and raises questions about the long-term resilience of the craft movement.

在荷兰,最成功的手工酿酒厂之一,博德格拉文的德莫伦最近被四大现有酿酒商之一的宝华丽收购。宝华丽还拥有荷兰Abbey酿酒厂De Koningshoeven,以正宗的特拉普斯特(Trappist)啤酒闻名,而喜力啤酒公司在2000年初收购了最古老的仍在运营的酿酒厂Brand。这标志着一个行业整合的新时代,并引发了人们对手工行业长期韧性的质疑。



In short, an updated notion of craftsmanship provides the architecture needed for a sustainable, innovative economy. Entrepreneurs of the future are those that redefine our relationship with materials. They are the craftspeople who make beer out of stale bread, leather from leftover fruit or who fashion garments from fish skin.
Whether these craft principles will shape the new economy largely depends on modern corporations truly infusing them into their organisations and going beyond craft-washing. Corporate success is historically based on choices that contradict craft principles, which means that corporations are often at a loss when it comes to meaningfully enacting any of these ideas.

简而言之,手工的更新概念为可持续、创新的经济提供了所需的架构。未来的企业家是那些重新定义我们与材料关系的人。他们是用不新鲜的面包做啤酒的工匠,用剩下的水果做皮革,或者用鱼皮做服装。
这些手工原则能否塑造新经济,在很大程度上取决于现代企业是否真正将它们注入自己的组织,并超越手工“清洗”。从历史上看,企业的成功是建立在与手工原则相矛盾的选择之上的,这意味着当涉及到有意义地实施这些想法时,企业往往会不知所措。

This likely means that a transition has to be sustained from the bottom: in the microbreweries, urban gardens, maker spaces and repair cafes. The people in these spaces are not just making. They are creating the mentality needed for a sustainable economy. We need more makers, not managers.

这可能意味着转型必须从底层开始:在微型啤酒厂、城市花园、创客空间和维修咖啡馆。这些地方的人们不仅仅是在制造。他们正在创造可持续经济所需的心态。我们需要更多的创造者,而不是管理者。

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Brian House(楼主)
logged in via Google
Great article.The way of the future. Labour intensive. As you so rightly point out AUTHENTIC.

是一篇极好的文章。通往未来的路,劳动密集型。就像你说的那样真实。

Stephen Newton(回复楼上)
You miss the point. The article explains that consumers want authenticity, but that this is easily faked.

你没抓住重点。这篇文章解释说,消费者想要真品,但这很容易被伪造。

Brian House(回复楼上)
How do you fake authenticity?

如何伪造真品?



Dave Wright(回复楼上)
Actually, our brewery’s stainless steel equipment was fabricated in the local town by people who will in turn spend their money locally. This is probably true of many small breweries, since steel fabrication is a trade that serves many sectors and it’s harder to transport a large vessel than it is the sheet steel it is made from. We don’t use bottles at all because we only sell to pubs, supporting our community. And we’ve been doing this since 1985. We did have a blacksmith and farrier working from the brewery yard until recently who served nearby equestrians (our brewery building was purpose built in 1833, so it has stables and a forge to aid beer delivery by horse) but steel fabrication requires a welder.

事实上,我们啤酒厂的不锈钢设备就是由当地人在本地制造的,这些人会在当地消费。许多小型啤酒厂可能都是如此,因为钢铁制造是一项服务于许多行业的贸易,而且运输一艘大型船舶比运输由薄钢板制成的船舶更困难。我们根本不用瓶子,因为我们只卖给酒吧,以支持我们的社区。我们从1985年就开始这样做了。我们确实有一个铁匠和蹄铁匠在啤酒厂附近工作,直到最近,他还在附近为马术选手提供服务(我们的啤酒厂建于1833年,所以它有马厩和一个熔炉,帮助马匹运送啤酒),但钢铁制造需要一个焊工。

That said, I’m sympathetic to your scepticism surrounding areas of this new ‘Craft’ movement. A traditional floor maltings (where the germinating barley is carefully raked on a floor,, a labour intensive process) has closed for business because most of these ‘craft’ breweries use drum-malted barley at half the price. It can make you feel that ‘craft’ just means making a job for yourself whilst using industrially produced ingredients - and so some small breweries can be as guilty of ‘craft washing’ as larger corporations.

也就是说,我很同情你对这个新“手工”运动的怀疑。传统的地板麦芽(发芽的大麦在地板上被小心地耙平,这是一个劳动密集型的过程)已经停止营业,因为这些“手工”啤酒厂大多以半价使用桶装麦芽。它会让你觉得,“手工”只是意味着在使用工业生产的原料的同时,为自己创造一份工作——因此,一些小型啤酒厂可能会像大型企业一样对“手工清洗”感到内疚。

Jochem Kroezen(回复楼主)
We are not suggesting going back to a time where everything was handmade. We suggest a reinfusion of craft principles in our modern industries. For advanced technology this could mean the development of local repair networks (which are actually quite common for cell phones) or better: systems for remanufacturing that would allow us to upgrade or recover products. All this would require an increase in local production networks, human skill levels and excellence in production. A good example can actually be found in Fairphone

我们并不建议回到一切都是手工制作的时代。我们建议在现代工业中重新注入手工原理。对于先进技术而言,这可能意味着发展本地维修网络(实际上这在手机中相当普遍),或者更好:一个再制造系统,使我们能够升级或恢复产品。所有这一切都需要增加当地的生产网络、提高人的技能水平和提高生产水平。一个很好的例子可以在Fairphone中找到。
(网址https://shop./en/spare-parts)



I also didn’t quite get how corporations could incorporate these values into their activities - craft beer presumably has no longer a shelf-life than mass produced beer. I doubt if corporate executives in major brewing companies have much interest in their product as long as it sells, but they do have a strong sense of new profitable markets which is why they are keen to acquire larger craft outfits. The outcome is much the same.

我也不太明白企业如何将这些价值观融入到他们的活动中——精酿啤酒大概不会比大批量生产的啤酒有更长的保质期。我怀疑大型酿酒公司的高管们是否对他们的产品有浓厚的兴趣,只要它还在销售,但他们确实对新的有利可图的市场有着强烈的感觉,这就是为什么他们热衷于收购规模更大的手工装备。结果大同小异。

Jochem Kroezen(回复楼上)
craft brewing may be more sustainable. When referring to the positive impact of craft brewing we mean locally produced and consumed beer with local inputs. The point of our article is that we think it is impact does not have to be marginal if we think more seriously about it. Integrating these principles in our corporations would be important but is challenging. There are some promising examples, like Patagonia that we referred to above.

手工酿造可能更可持续。当提到精酿啤酒的积极影响时,我们指的是当地生产和消费的本地投入的啤酒。我们这篇文章的观点是,如果我们更认真地思考这个问题,我们认为它的影响并不一定是微不足道的。将这些原则整合到我们的企业中是很重要的,但也是具有挑战性的。有一些很有希望的例子,比如我们上面提到的巴塔哥尼亚。

(注:巴塔哥尼亚,世界顶级户外奢侈品牌,全球功能与生活方式服饰的设计和营销的全球领导者,是美国户外品牌中的Gucci,裁剪和做工堪称完美)

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